One of the things I love about living in Madrid is that it’s a bustling international city, and when it comes to food you can find just about any kind of cuisine your heart desires. As an Iranian American living in Madrid for over five years and founder of the Madrid Persian Food Lovers Facebook group, I thought it was about time that I shared this guide to all things Persian in Madrid. 

Here’s all of the knowledge I’ve gained about Persian restaurants and cultural happenings across the city:

FOOD

Banibanoo

For something totally different, check out this modern and casual restaurant, whose name translates to “Miss Bani” in reference to its young owner, Banefsheh. What’s unique about this restaurant is that it serves up dishes usually only found in Persian homes.

The menu changes regularly, but some things you might typically find are sweet rice with chicken (shirin polo), egg frittata with a mix of herbs (kuku sabsi), or eggplant dip with walnuts and strained yogurt (kashke bademjan), each with the chef’s own creative spin.

Order the combo meal, and choose three items from the colorful variety of items on display behind the counter. Stay for dessert and typical drinks, such as Persian lemonade or cucumber and rose water. Also check out our previous review of Banibanoo.

• Facebook & Instagram: @banibanoomadrid 
• Address: Calle de las Mártires Concepcionistas, 19
• Nearest metro: Manuel Becerra

Mesón Persa Mr. Kabab

Don’t be confused by its name. The kebab served at this traditional Persian sit-down restaurant has little to do with its fast-food cousin, the Turkish doner kebab. In Iran, the term kebab, or kabab, is used to refer to meat skewers cooked over an open flame. Mr. Kabab is a favorite of the Iranian community in Madrid, and in addition to delicious kebabs made of tender beef, lamb, seasoned ground beef (kubideh), and chicken marinated in Persian spices, you can also find traditional Persian stews and appetizers. The owner, Mustafah, also runs the Persian store next door where you can find a selection of Iranian dry and canned goods to make your own creations at home.

• Website
• Address: Calle de los Artistas
• Nearest metro: Cuatro Caminos

La Palmera del Retiro

I was so excited to learn that Mina Rashidi, the former owner and chef at my absolute favorite Persian restaurant in Madrid, has a new project. Her previous venture, the very traditional Tehran restaurant in Salamanca, sadly shut its doors in 2012 during the recession.

Her new Spanish-Persian tapas bar concept offers a limited menu, but everything as delicious as you’d expect from Mina. Among the Persian tapas she typically serves are an eggplant dip known as kashke bademjan, as well as stuffed grape leaves, or dolmeh. It’s a great place to stop for a caña and a tasty snack after a stroll in nearby Retiro.

• Website
• Address: Av. de Menéndez Pelayo, 53
• Nearest metro: Ibiza

Sabor Azafrán

This restaurant is another great place to try typical Persian cuisine. It’s a bit off the beaten path, in Madrid’s Cuidad Lineal neighborhood, however it’s well worth the visit. Try one of the delicious stews (khoresh), such as one made with meat, potato and split peas (khoresh gaimeh), or another with a mix of herbs, meat and red beans (khoresh gormeh sabsi).

Of course, as any good traditional Persian restaurant, this one also has all the variety of kebab you would expect, served up with steamed saffron rice and roasted tomatoes. This place is great for large groups, as it has a very large dining room, and long tables.

• Website, Facebook & Instagram: @sabor.azafran
• Address: Calle del General Aranaz, 65
• Nearest metro: Cuidad Lineal

Stop Pizza

You wouldn’t know it from the outside, but this unsuspecting pizza and doner kebab take-away stand is a landmark for Madrid’s Persian community. Call ahead and the owner, Mehdi, will prepare you some traditional Persian barberi bread in his pizza oven. Or stop in any time for a pizza served on crust that has a texture suspiciously similar to barberi, giving the pizza its own unique taste. You can also find typical Persian stuffed grape leaves (dolmeh). Finish it all off with a strong black tea served from a traditional Persian tea pot. Note: there’s nothing Persian about the rest of the menu.

• Website
• Address: Calle del Dr. Santero, 6
• Nearest metro: Cuatro Caminos

Restaurante Esfahan

The most central of Madrid’s traditional Persian restaurants, this one is located right around the corner from Plaza España. Its menu contains some Middle Eastern fusion, with dishes like hummus and pita bread and salmon with orange sauce. However, they also feature many of Iran’s most typical dishes, and even some you can’t find in other Iranian restaurants in Madrid.

Standout dishes are the herbed rice with roasted lamb (bagali polo) and barley soup (soupe jo), which is a common staple in any Persian home. The restaurant’s walls are covered with traditional Persian paintings and handicrafts, including woven carpets that cover the lower part of the walls. That, along with the traditional music played in the background, will make you feel like you’ve been transported to Iran.

• Facebook
• Address: Calle de San Bernardino, 1
• Nearest metro: Plaza de España or Noviciado

CULTURE

Tried the food, and hungry to learn more about Persian culture? Check out these cultural institutions:

Centro Persepolis

A Persian cultural center that hosts cultural events, a bazaar where they sell Persian handicrafts, and organizes trips to Iran. They also host talks on Iranian art and literature, including poem recitation sessions in Spanish and Farsi.

Each year they organize a few concerts in Madrid, both by Iranian bands or those made to connect Iranian and non-Iranian music. These events have included some outstanding Iranian musicians, such as Shahram Nazeri, Hossein Alizadeh and Alireza Ghorbani to name a few.

• Website & Facebook
• Address: Calle Sta. María, 20
• Nearest metro: Anton Martin

Casa Persa

The Casa Persa is an association dedicated to the diffusion and teaching of Persian mysticism, poetry and music. Every Saturday it hosts an improvized performance of Sufí music and dancing. The regular performers, Majid Javadi, Antonio Fernández and Carmen Sánchez, are often joined by other musicians from the community. It’s recommended to reserve by phone ahead of time, as space is limited. There is an entry fee of 15 euros, and includes wine.

• Website & Facebook
• Address: Calle Silva  nº5, 5ª planta
• Nearest metro: Santo Domingo or Callao

MORE

When it comes to finding Persian products, whatever you can’t find at the Mr. Kebab shop in Cuatro Caminos mentioned above, you might also look for at one of the many Arabic shops surrounding the Islamic Cultural Center of Madrid. Many of these shops carry Iranian products, including the coveted sweet, black dates from the region of Bam.

Interested in hearing an innovative blend of traditional Iranian and Flamenco music? Then check out the band Baramu, made up of Babak Kamgar, Pedro Pedrosa and Manuel Espinosa, collectively representing Iran, Extremadura and Andalucía. Based in Madrid, they regularly play events around the city. The trio mix traditional instruments from Iran and Spain to create a sound you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the world.

La Tasca is a Spanish bar near Príncipe Pio run by a Persian family. There’s no Persian food on the menu, but it’s great for a beer and a tapa, and if you mention you love Iranian culture, you may get invited to some tea on the house.

If you make your way out to Alcobendas, a suburb northeast of Madrid, then you might check out Nuevo Espacio. It’s a  Persian restaurant founded by a former cook from Mr. Kebab that was so successful he opened a second location, also in Alcobendas. It’s also worth noting that Alcobendas is home to a substantial Persian community, and hosts Persian New Year celebrations, among other cultural events throughout the year.

Know of anything else that should be included in this guide to all things Persian in Madrid? Let us know in the comments!

 

So for once I’m going to keep this short and sweet. Possibly as short as my time spent at the lovely Faraday, my current top pick when it comes to a cracking cup of coffee, in a spot as cosy as cashmere.

Nestled on Calle San Marcos in the perennially popular Chueca, I first suggested it to a pal for a quick post-work drink a few Friday’s ago. Quick disclaimer – they do not bear booze. So if you’re after vino, cañas and the like, just walk on by. But if you’re after coffee with a kick, served in surroundings that make you forget that you were craving a G&T, then this may well be the place for you.

It’s worth me noting that it’s hipster heaven. There’s luxe leather chairs aplenty and vinyls (to be purchased) galore. Faraday’s USP in a city heaving with coffee competitors is that it’s a coffee shop slash mini-concept store. Aside from the vinyls there were other vignettes to be snapped up post flat white.

Whilst I was there to chew the fat with my mate, there was no shortage of folk taping away on their Macs, making it a desirable locale for a digital nomad. The eclectic tunes being pumped out also made it fiesta friendly but not deafeningly so.

Although I eventually left to sink my well-earned G&T at a neighbouring waterhole on the nearby Calle Belen, Faraday proves that sometime’s there’s some fun to be had in abstaining.

All photos from Faraday’s instagram account

Faraday

• Instagram @faradaymadrid
• Address: Calle San Lucas, 9
• Metro: Chueca

Also check out:

• Gin O’clock – time to enjoy Madrid’s finest G&T’s
• 5 Work-friendly cafés in Malasaña with great WiFi

All throughout the world I’m always seeking out the no-frills places. In the UK I’m always in the filthy pubs. Even in India, you’ll find me in bars lit by one fluorescent light, where I’m the only woman. I love these really divey ‘salt of the earth’ kind of places. Pure, raw… no-frills.

Today, in celebration of International Women’s Day, I’d like to introduce you to Leah Pattem (UK), the creator of the truly extraordinary blog Madrid No Frills. Through her powerful stories and photos, Leah passionately documents the city’s old-fashioned bars and traditional businesses, many of which are on the brink of extinction. She is one of the city’s most inspiring independent female journalists, and is making her voice heard to support a sector that is often overlooked in the mainstream media.

Leah also explores Madrid’s lesser-known neighborhoods and forgotten legends, revealing a side of the city that most residents rarely see: from dark messages hidden in the city’s street art to Spain’s last toy hospital. And her efforts are making an impact in the lives of many, including local shopkeepers, migrants and artists.

Madrid No Frills really took off last November, when Leah published a photo series of 100 No-Frills Bars. The series went viral and was also featured in top publications like El País and Cónde Nast Traveler. Her website now receives 25,000 visitors per month. But despite all the acclaim she’s earned, Leah has no plans to change the core purpose of her blog. This is her personal hobby – her incredible gift to the city.

That bar in the cover photo is the most famous bar in Spain right now. The day I published the photo series, I literally had to increase the website’s capacity overnight. It’s been shared by millions of people around the world, in Lithuania, Mexico, America… That’s just amazing.

I actually first met Leah just before she started Madrid No Frills (MNF). She got in touch with Naked Madrid to write a piece about an olive grove tour run by her friends in the outskirts of Madrid. Three years have passed since she embarked on her own mission – and now, it’s my turn to write about her inspiring work. We met up for a coffee in Plaza Cascorro, and here’s what went down:

How did it all start?

In a no-frills bar, just thinking: all of these cool, new chic bars get huge shout-outs all the time, with hordes of people coming to visit while, at the same time, these little bars – often tired, physically and emotionally – don’t even have a location on Google Maps. 

Nobody would ever write about these places but, to me, with an ‘outsider’s’ perspective, they’re the most special – they’re unique to Madrid. One doesn’t move a thousand miles to have the same thing you can get back at home, so I thought, these places need to be celebrated, or else they’re going to close.

Why do you do it?

I just want to raise awareness of the Madrid that very few know about. It may sound naive, but I got into journalism because I want to change the world. I’ve recently become a professional journalist and my blog is a part of that. But, you’ve got to be so sensitive about the information you receive and the way in which you share it, such as people’s specific details and photographs of them.

I love to share my personal angle on things but don’t want to cause controversy in doing so, but at the same time, I need to be bold and stand up for what I believe in. This combination is tricky, but it can be powerful.

How did you get into photography?

Photography has always been a hobby. I’ve always loved taking photos, even in single digits. I used to process my own photos. Several years back, I dabbled in professional photography for a year and a half in Newcastle, mainly working with startups. Well, that was big mistake. I felt like I was selling my soul and was so traumatized that I didn’t pick up my camera for three years. Once I picked it back up, Madrid No Frills started. That’s a lesson I learned: don’t sell your hobby. You’ve got to keep something for yourself.

You realize you’ve become an influencer, right?

I actually have influenced! Bar Cruz just over there [she points out the window] has been seen by millions of people on their screens and another 99 bars from my 100 Bars project have been seen by millions of people around the world. That’s just insane.

Is Madrid No Frills still a one-woman mission?

Yes, mostly. I also have a growing team of writers who are helping me try to save these authentic, time-warp kind of places. These no-frills bars. And it seems to be working! And that’s what crazy. It seems to be actually working. 

What are some of the other articles that have made a big impact?

The one about the Senegalese tailor, he had a really powerful story: How a starry-eyed rumour of a better life brought this young Senegalese tailor to Madrid.

And another article about Vallecas that went viral around Madrid: Vallecas: Madrid’s rebellious working-class neighborhood.

How do your articles affect the bars and people when you feature them?

A lot of the owners are quite old and they don’t even know what a blog is. They’re so unplugged, so unconnected to the Internet. I mean, many don’t even have Google locations for their own establishments. I’m the one who puts them on the map – literally.

Before writing an article about them, I’ll let them know and give them the option to say no, which they never have. Then, after writing the article, I’ll go later on and ask if my article may have made an impact on their bar. A lot of the owners do say: “I’ve suddenly received a lot of foreign people in my bar, from France, Germany, people from all around the world…” But usually they don’t understand why.

So what exactly is a no-frills bar?

It’s just really interesting to understand what is a no-frills bar. There are so many “codes” to learn, especially as an Englishwoman new to this whole thing. There’s the steel bar, the formica cladding, and the serviettes. Then on top of that, you’ve got the owner’s personality and that’s what sets each bar apart.

Behind every no-frills bar you’ll find family photos, a little mascot such as a teddy bear sitting on top of the oven or in the extractor fan area. And then a couple of little trinkets, souvenirs that people have given them.

They all have a beautiful, mid-century modernist design throughout, which, even though they were built to last, are beginning to fade. I’m trying to understand what this all means – trying to find the parallels and patterns. These specific designs and the personality superimposed on top of that.

What could a “new” no-frills place look like? For example, I saw you wrote about a new restaurant, 100 Mandela.

They’ve got a slightly different aesthetic. 100 Mandela is more about the immigrant communities. I’m a huge fan of raising awareness and telling stories about ethnic minorities, the elderly and also women. I’m also working on an LGBT+ story as well.

I’m trying to raise awareness of these communities through physical access points like restaurants or shops, so you can actually meet them in person. Here they are, right here, right now. They’re part of your community and here’s how you can connect with one another.

What makes Madrid No Frills so unique?

It’s not just “I recommend this place.” It’s “understand the story and the history” and experience the very same thing that I experienced when I went there too. I’m trying to open people’s eyes to see the city in a new way. Not just my way, but in a really special way that maybe people have overlooked or simply forgotten about.

I want you to think about what is around you – not just all the exciting new places, but be conscious of the harder-hitting truth: there’s a lot of suffering that happens in Madrid, and it’s often right in front you. The places where you’re eating, the people you’re talking to, the scars that have been covered up on the walls. It’s all around us.

Every now and then, we should stop and think and process…. just by being aware of something helps, and simply discussing it is huge.

Why should we make a point of going to these no-frills places?

Well, it’s all about supporting the local community. I really appreciate my barrio [referring to the Rastro area and Lavapiés]. I’ve got my bread girls, my Spanish shoe guy, my Mauritanian veg guy. 

As foreigners, we often feel a lot more in common with people who are in the same boat as us – people who’ve come from another city or country, who’ve moved across Spain, or the Atlantic – to a new city. You find you have a lot in common with your community, and you might be surprised what your community looks like.

It’s also about building bridges between communities, where everybody’s welcome under one roof. For example, if you’re a Brit in a Senegalese restaurant with Senegalese people, you’re creating a bridge and simultaneously supporting a local business.

You’ve got to be a little bit adventurous. Sometimes it can be a little daunting being different. At a no-frills bar, you might be surrounded by a bunch of old men. But, if you go with a bunch of your girl friends, you’ve suddenly got a small space that’s more representative of society. We’re bridging a gap between two sexes, two generations, and often between two ethnicities too, bringing everyone together and supporting the local communities as well.

What inspired you?

Honestly, Naked Madrid was a huge inspiration. As you know, I’ve written many articles for you. I remember how excited I was to have my first article published about the Italian place in Mercado Chamartín, and then the olive grove run by my friends. They’re also doing a kind of unusual thing: they’re millennials reconnecting with a traditional industry: farming. They’ve had a lot of English-speaking people come on their tours since that article came out, and they’re so grateful!

How much time do you dedicate to it now?

Quite a lot. I have full-time work – I’m a teacher and a writer – but I love Madrid No Frills so I don’t see it as work (OK, well it’s not work because I don’t get paid!). I currently put out one new article a week, plus research… if you even consider it research. It’s fun! It’s just that I fancy going to this place, so let’s go check it out…

It’s genuinely a reflection of my life, how I roll. I don’t want it to be the opposite, ever. Every now and then there might be a mission, for example, I recently covered an eviction. I knew it was going on. I was there for a few hours.

Is there a game plan?

For a long time, I didn’t have one, and that’s what’s been so fun about it. I’ve always been very spontaneous and I think that’s what’s made MNF what it is. There was no strategy – it’s a passion project. There are a lot of people who are asking me to write a book, and Madrid deserves a book.

I’ve been approached by publishers and even investors, but I’ve always said no because I want to do things my way. Also, if I did write a book, it would be a collaborative thing, bringing in illustrators and other writers. It also wouldn’t just be a guidebook, but more of a portrait of Madrid.

Having said all that though, I’ve recently hatched a top-secret plan to grow MNF, so watch this space!

How has Madrid No Frills changed over the years?

Looking back to the very beginning of Madrid No Frills, I’ve brought in a lot more human stories. But the core of MNF is still Madrid’s no-frills bars. I absolutely love no-frills bars. I genuinely spend a lot of time in them.

What would you say to people who don’t see what’s so special about no-frills bars?

I would say “take my hand and come with me, and let me show you why I love them so much.” Maybe I could explain the details and the hidden narrative of the place: the history, and what it all means from within.

Would you like to see Madrid No Frills go global?

I would love to see Mumbai No Frills, London No Frills, Newcastle No Frills, raising awareness of those little places that are being overlooked all over the world. The No Frills mission is a great cause. If it turns into a global trend, that would be great.

What about if people start copying you?

I’ve already come across a lot of copycats, but I’m beyond fine with that. I’m so excited when I see a copycat – it means they’re doing a service to their city. A hundred no-frills bars in Berlin? Go for it! 100 no-frills bars in Vallecas? Please, dude, go for it. Steal my ideas. You’re going to be doing an amazing service. I never get worried about it.

Have you thought about monetizing the site?

I’ve been asked that question so many times [Leah laughs]. I’m lucky enough to earn a vaguely sustainable income through teaching and journalism, and still have just enough free time and energy to give to MNF. Not making money through my blog has meant that this is a project that is so pure…

The fact that it’s not monetized means I’ve never been influenced by sponsored content. People have tried to get me to plug them for money or freebies but I’ve never accepted because I don’t support their particular business.

If a no-frills bar approached me asking for a plug, I might accept, but they typically have no money, so I couldn’t really ask for it. There’s no money in the places I write about, and that’s a big part of why I write about them. MNF is purely based on what I love. People can sense that. Money isn’t the only resource – love and passion make the world spin too.

Any thoughts on Women’s Day… in terms of Madrid No Frills?

It’s not like blogging is a man’s world or anything. But what’s weird is that I’m a woman behind this, also of color, who goes to these predominantly white, male-heavy bars. That’s kind of unusual. Not many people look like me here. I speak to quite a lot of male migrants and old Spanish men. I do often find myself in a male-dominated space in many ways, but perhaps it’s made me more confident. I can hold my own more than ever before. I’ve had to learn to speak louder, be more persistent and I probably have to fight harder than men to be listened to.

Women’s Day has also made me more aware of myself as a woman, and it’s helped me realize that my voice is important. Through MNF, it now reaches 25,000 people a month, and I don’t take that lightly. I use my voice to fight for those who don’t have one.

I’m also working on having more women stories on the blog but they’re a lot more shy and a lot harder to find in certain professions, like being a portero (doorman). There aren’t as many female shopkeepers or female bar owners. I’m trying to find more, but here are some that I’ve written about:

Is Madrid No Frills going to keep its core?

Yes, definitely. The blog is based on passion, a personal passion. Also, the one thing that’s consistent about Madrid No Frills and that’s never going to change is that I’m behind it. I trust myself to keep it real, so I know that it’s going to continue as it is, staying true to Madrid and its no-frills soul.

Thank you, Leah, for sharing your story with us! And Happy International Women’s Day to all the inspiring women of the world – get your work out there and make your voices heard!

• Please follow Madrid No Frills’ incredible mission on Facebook and Instagram, too.
• You can also sign up for the newsletter to receive a copy of the free weekend guide.

 

Whether it’s your first time in the city or you’ve been living here for years, this guide provides a little something for everyone. You’ll find a mix of touristy and non-touristy things to do in Madrid, along with hidden gems and quirky tidbits scattered throughout.

We plan on updating this guide regularly with our own discoveries and friendly suggestions. So feel free to comment!

Wining & dining

As you walk through the streets of Madrid it can feel like there are more bars and restaurants than people. Choosing where to eat and drink among all the options is tricky at times, so here’s a list to start off with:

Food markets

Many of Madrid’s neighborhood markets have been revamped while preserving their traditional spirit. They’re one of the best ways to experience Madrid’s food culture. Here’s a list of the most popular mercados: 

Mercado de San Miguel: The city’s prettiest and most famous food market, situated right off Plaza Mayor. The quality here is excellent, although you’ll usually find hordes of visitors.

Mercado de San Fernando: My favorite food market in the city, situated in Lavapiés. Here you’ll find a great, casual atmosphere, visited by locals and foreigners alike. There’s a wonderful mix of food stalls, from the Asturian El Guaje de Lavapiés to the Portuguese Mercadillo Lisboa.

Mercado de San Antón: If you’re in Chueca and not sure where to go, head over to this multi-level food market and grab a drink on the rooftop bar, open year round!

Mercado de Antón Martín: This popular market offers several classic food stalls and international eateries, including one of the city’s best Italian restaurants, Fiaschetteria La Saletta.

• Tip: just one flight up you’ll find the most important flamenco dance studio in Madrid, Amor de Dios! Pop up to feel the vibe.

Mercado de la Cebada: Located in La Latina, this market especially comes alive on Saturdays. You’ll find visitors eating and drinking amid the labyrinth of stalls. Join them!

• Also read: La Latina’s seafood party in Mercado de la Cebada

Mercado de Vallehermoso: Located near Arguelles, this one’s a little less central than the others, but no less active. You’ll find the traditional market stalls situated alongside modern options like the popular Kitchen 154, specializing in spicy Asian street food dishes.

Restaurants, bars and cafés:

Bodegas Rosell: If you’re looking for an authentic Spanish meal, it’s best to go to one of the old-school tabernas that have stood the test of time, like Bodegas Rosell, situated by Atocha.

Three more Spanish eateries we love:

• Juana la Loca: A family-run Spanish restaurant in La Latina offering a wonderful ambience and a menu featuring traditional and international dishes, and pintxos with a creative twist. Always a great choice.
• Casa Mingo: A one-of-a-kind and very no-frills restaurant specializing in roasted chicken and sidra (cider) – so you get to learn how to pour it in the Asturian way (escanciar).
• Bar Lambuzo: One of the first restaurants we ever wrote about on Naked Madrid, back in 2014. Lovingly run by a family from Cádiz, this welcoming taberna serves authentic dishes from Andalucía. Bar Lambuzo now has three locations: Sol, Mercado de Chamberí, and Retiro.

Tapas bar hopping in La Latina: At least one night in Madrid should be dedicated to tapas bar hopping, and one of the best streets to do this on is Cava Baja, along with its surrounding calles and plazas. Here you’ll find bar after bar… after bar.

Calle Ponzano, the city’s top foodie street. Madrid has chosen Calle Ponzano to become its gourmet golden mile, lined with great restaurants to choose from, including Sala Despiecie, Alipio Ramos and Toque de Sal.

• Here’s a longer list of places to eat on Calle Ponzano.

Corredera Bajo de San Pablo in Malasaña. This is another street that’s full of fun bars and restaurants, including Amargo Place to Be (with live music), Elemental Bistro (French-Spanish cuisine) and Aió (Sardinian restaurant with a bike storage downstairs). There’s also the famous Teatro Lara, and…

• Secret bar at Kikekeller: This design studio turns into a clandestine bar at night on the weekends, when art and mixology come together.

Lavapiés has it all: Malasaña and Chueca have become so popular that it’s a bit overwhelming at times. The multicultural neighborhood of Lavapiés offers a more casual vibe, yet there’s no shortage of food options.

• Some of our favorite places in Lavapiés include: Los Chuchis, Badila, La Berenjena, Los Porfiados, and Barbieri, just to name a few.
• Also see: 10 eateries from around the world in Lavapiés and Embajadores

Barrio Slamanca: This is the city’s higher-end area. It’s very pretty and has some of the best eateries in the city, from Michelin-starred restaurants to friendly neighborhood bars. We’d love to explore Salamanca’s hidden gems more. Here are some of the places we’ve previously featured:

• StreetXO, a casual version of the world-famous DiverXO by rockstar chef Dabiz Muñoz
• Arugula, a restaurant by Retiro Park serving great salads and healthy dishes
• Tandoori Station, one of the city’s top Indian restaurants
• Banibanoo, a wonderful market-style Iranian restaurant

Go on a hunt for the best tortilla: This Spanish comfort food always hits the spot and you can order a “pincho” (slice) at just about every bar in the city. Try these spots (and many others) and see which one you like best: Where to find the best tortilla in Madrid.

Sip on sherry at La Venencia: Please don’t leave the city without visiting this truly unique bar in Barrio de las Letras. Entering La Venencia means traveling to another time period. They only offer sherry (four types).

• Also check out: What to see in Barrio de las Letras
• And: Take a peek inside 5 historical Madrid bars

La hora del vermut: The city is reviving an old ritual, which entails drinking vermouth along with an aperitivo before lunchtime, especially on Sundays. Experience this tradition at these timeless bars, or at the newer vermuterías to join in on the vermouth craze.

Cocktails at The Cock: Madrid has some great cocktail bars. If you’re looking for the kind that hasn’t changed in… forever, then The Cock’s your safest bet. Right down the street is Del Diego, another good option.

Pepe Botella: If you’re looking for a place to get a coffee or a glass of wine in Malasaña, I personally recommend this bar in Plaza Dos de Mayo. Grab the window seat if you can. After a couple of rounds, you’ll be in the perfect state of mind to explore the neighborhood.

Also see: Work-friendly cafés in Malasaña with great Wi-Fi

María Pandora: Have champagne at this funky arts bar in La Latina. You’ll also get to watch the sunset over Parque de las Vistillas. The hours are a little odd so check online if they’re open.

Also see: Discover Madrid’s passionate poetry scene

Have a sweet treat at an old-world pastry shop: The city’s most famous is La Mallorquina, located right in Sol. You’ll usually find a line out the door for take-away, but there’s a spacious tea room upstairs.

• Right down the street is another traditional pastry shop, El Riojano, also with a tea room.
• Also see: 7 best pastry shops in Madrid and the city’s best churros spots.

Cultural activities

El Matadero: This former slaughterhouse is now one of the city’s most active cultural hubs, complete with a cinema, theater, café, an outdoor area used for markets and more!

Conde Duque: An enormous cultural center holding free exhibits including large-scale art projects and exhibits. It also hosts concerts, performances, book archives and even outdoor cinema which runs during summer.

• Plaza de Guardia de Corps: it’s located in a cute little plaza, surrounded by bars, restaurants and shops.

Cine Doré/La Filmoteca: A funky old cinema screening classic films from around the world in original version and at an unbeatable price of €2.50. It’s one of the city’s most popular movie houses, located right by Mercado de Antón Martín.

• Also check out: Where to enjoy good film in Madrid

Sala Equis: One of the city’s trendiest hotspots, a former XXX theater transformed into an eatery and cinema, located in Tirso de Molina.

Desperate Literature: An international bookstore selling the best selection of English-language books in the city. They also throw great events, from readings to concerts.

• Also check out: The city’s best café-bookshops

Microteatro por Dinero: “Micro-theater” performances are all the rage in Madrid, and one of the best places to see these 15-minute shows are at Microteatro por Dinero in Malasaña. Get your €4 ticket, grab a drink and enjoy the show! It makes for a really fun night, although you do need a good level of Spanish to appreciate it.

• If you’re looking for theater in English, check out the interactive shows put on by Mad Improv. Lots of fun!

Mercado de Motores: The city’s trendiest monthly market, held in a train museum. You’ll find a variety of stalls set up along the tracks, and food trucks outside. Get there early before the crowds swarm in.

Check out Madridnofrills.com: This website offers incredibly insightful information on a side of Madrid that tourists (and locals) almost never experience, from the city’s anti-mainstream music scene to a photo series of 100 of Madrid’s no-frills bars (that’s recently gone viral!). Do have a look.

Museums

Madrid boasts several world-renowned arts institutions as well as lesser-known museums and “casa museos” (former private mansions). Here are some top picks, although you can also check out our guide to the city’s museums (and how to get in for free) here.

The Golden Triangle of Art: Madrid’s three world-famous museums are located on Paseo del Prado, and need no introduction: 

• The Prado Museum
• Thyssen
• Reina Sofía Museum 

Within walking distance are three other museums I’d highly recommend:

• Museo Naval: Located beside the Prado is the Maritime Museum, which houses an impressive collection that’s a surprise to many, even Madrileños.
• La Casa Encendida: Situated near Reína Sofía, this dynamic cultural center holds contemporary art exhibits and activities, both inside as well as on its rooftop terrace. Free entrance.
• CaixaForum: Also located on Paseo del Prado is a contemporary arts center with great exhibits and an urban garden wall. 

Three “Casa Museos” that are incredibly charming and take you back in time:

• Museo de Cerralbo: My personal favorite. This small museum is a portal to another era. It was a former private mansion and is located next to the stunning Templo de Debod (more on that below).
• Sorolla Museum: The former house of famous Spanish painter Joaquín Sorolla. Step inside his private living quarters to see his studio and personal collection. It’s well worth a visit.
• Museo del Romanticismo: Walk through the beautiful rooms of this museum in Chueca that have been kept in tact from the Romanticism Era. Make sure to have a tea in the lovely garden afterwards.

La Neomudéjar: This is the most avant-garde museum on the list, occupying a former industrial railway building near Atocha train station.

Art shows and festivals: Madrid has a thriving arts scene, with events held year round, such as the world-famous Madrid Art Week that’s going on right now. Time Out Madrid is the best place to find out about the city’s events in English.

Plazas & streets

After seeing the mandatory Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol, here are a few other must-see places:

Plaza de la Villa, the city’s original town hall is absolutely beautiful, especially at nighttime. The little surrounding streets, like Calle del Codo, are also charming.

• Tip: just a few steps away from the plaza lies a sweet shop run by nuns: El Jardín del Convento, on Calle del Cordón 1.

Plaza de Oriente: Here you’ll see the Royal Palace, Royal Opera House, the Sabatini gardens and the Almudena Cathedral. There’s also a lesser-known crypt below the cathedral that boasts hundreds of columns, each one unique.

Plaza de Dos de Mayo: This happening plaza is nestled between the streets of Malasaña, one of Madrid’s trendiest neighborhood. My favorite café in this plaza is Pepe Botella (mentioned above).

Plaza Olavide: A charming plaza in Chamberí, loved by locals. Come here to sit out on a terrace and soak up the sun.

Plaza de la Paja: A very popular plaza in La Latina, full of bars and restaurants. When the weather’s nice you’ll find spacious terrazas set up everywhere – you’ll have to be quick to find a table!

• Palacio del Príncipe Anglona Garden: This charming little garden is located right inside the plaza.

Staircase streets of La Latina

La Latina is one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful neighborhoods. Take a stroll through the area’s windy, narrow streets. You’ll find several streets that have stairs, like Calle del Rollo and Travesía del Nuncio (pictured below). Just wander around a little.

Streets of Lavapiés: Explore this vibrant, multicultural neighborhood. You’ll find a lot of street art on Calle Embajadores, Miguel de Servet, and Doctor Fourquet (where you’ll also find many micro-galleries).

Parks

Retiro: The city’s most popular park, situated in the center. There are several spots worth visiting, such as the lake, the rose garden and of course, the stunning glass palace.

Templo de Debod: Madrid houses a beautiful Egyptian temple surrounded by greenery. Come here to watch the sunset! Then take a walk through Parque del Oeste (next point).

Parque del Oeste. This spacious park is located in the western part of Madrid, near Moncloa and Templo de Debod. It provides a much-needed breath of fresh air, plus there are outdoor concerts held during the warmer months of the year.

• Rose garden: There’s a beautiful rose garden you shouldn’t miss in spring, Rosaleda de Madrid.

Casa de Campo: The largest park in Madrid. It really makes you feel like you’ve left the city. You’ll find lots of hills, trails, bike paths, bars with outdoor terraces and a lake. It’s also connected to Parque del Oeste and Madrid Río (mentioned below). You can rent a bike for the day and explore the park on wheels. Here you’ll also find:

• A theme park
• The zoo and aquarium
• Piscina Lago: one of the city’s most popular public swimming pools, open in summer.
• According to Madrid No Frills, there’s an old Spanish Civil War map that you can follow…

Madrid Río Park: Madrid’s Manzanares river has been turned into a public recreation space for children and adults alike. You’ll see people having picnics, rollerblading, running, cycling, playing sports and having a drink on the terraces. Madrid Río has sprinklers open during summer, playgrounds year round and the famous “spiral” bridge.

• I like going to El Matadero first, and then taking a walk along Madrid Río afterwards, as they’re connected.
• At the other end of Madrid Río is Casa de Campo, so you can bike through both on the same route.

Rooftops

One of the best things to do in Madrid is enjoy its rooftop craze. The city has tons of azoteas, and many are open year round:

Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes: Pretty much all the city’s best postcards feature views from this famous rooftop. Whether you’re in the mood to stay awhile and have a drink, or just pop up to take in the view, make sure to include it on your list. 

CentroCentro Cibeles: This is the city’s most famous building, hands down. It used to be a public post office but is now a free-entrance arts and cultural center. There’s also a rooftop bar where you can see panoramic views of the city, as well as a lookout point at the very top. 

Low-key rooftop bars: If you’re in the mood for a casual rooftop setting, one of our favorites is The Hat Madrid, a hostel located near Plaza Mayor.

• Also check out our full list of low-key rooftop bars open year round.

Shopping

Rastro Flea Market: Spend a Sunday rummaging through Madrid’s largest open-air flea market, open from 9am-3pm. Start off in Plaza de Cascorro and walk down Ribera de Curtidores. Make sure to explore the surrounding calles and plazas as well. You’ll find an endless number of shops and stalls selling trinkets and antiques from around the world.

• Best of all, it’s tradition to spend the rest of the day having tapas in La Latina. Just follow the crowds and do as the locals do!

Gran Vía and Calle Fuencarral: You can get all your shopping done on these two popular streets, which are connected. Gran Vía has all the big-name brands like Zara and Mango, while Calle Fuencarral is also lined with smaller shops. Once you’re on Fuencarral, explore the whole neighborhood of Malasaña on foot, and Chueca too while you’re at it. They’re next-door neighbors. 

Barrio Salamanca: This is the city’s most upscale neighborhood and it’s much less touristy than Gran Vía and Malasaña. It’s full of designer shops and independent brands.

Vintage and thrift shops: A few years ago it was hard to come by good thrift stores in the city, but now you can find a bunch to choose from. Check out our list of 10 great secondhand and vintage stores in Madrid.

Tour

Take a tour with Devour Madrid: This is the tour I’d most recommend going on. The folks at Devour Madrid food tour truly know what they’re taking about. This is one of the best things to do in Madrid if you’re just visiting: eating your way through the city as you learn about its history, culture and language.

Stunning local olive grove tour – in English: The founder of Madrid No Frills, Leah Pattem, suggests an olive oil tour in the outskirts of Madrid, called Proyecto los Aires. It’s a family-run olive grove with an innovative mission: to connect the local countryside with the city of Madrid and make farming a sustainable way of life once again.

Travel

Take a day-trip to a nearby town: There are several trips you can take from Madrid, which are very easy to get to by public transport. Here are a few recommendations:

• Toledo: If you’re short on time, I would highly recommend the breathtakingly beautiful city of Toledo. 
• Segovia would be next on the list, especially for its Roman aqueduct.
• Alcalá de Henares, the hometown of Cervantes, is another great option and very nearby.
• Check out our list of the 10 most beautiful surrounding towns. 

Know of any other things to do in Madrid that should be included on this list? Let us know in the comments and we’ll add them in!

It’s Madrid Art Week, one of the biggest cultural events of the year. And I’ve come to break down some of the major art fairs happening this weekend for you.

Here are six incredible art shows in Madrid that you should definitely check out:

1. ARCO Madrid

First up is the big one, ARCO Madrid. ARCO is open to the public on Friday 1st to Sunday March 3rd at IFEMA from 12–20:00. I have never been to ARCO but it’s the biggest art fair hosted by the city with work exhibited from over 200 galleries from 30 countries. You can see a wide range of art, including video art, installations, drawing, photography, giant sculptures of the Spanish King and more.

The invited country this year is Peru. General entry is €40 euros on Friday and Saturday, but €30 on Sunday. However, if you’re a student, you can get in for €20 any day.

More info on ARCO Madrid 

2. Art Madrid

Another major art fair is Art Madrid which is taking place this year at the Crystal Gallery in Cibeles. This fair is open to the public from Wednesday February 27th to Sunday March 3rd. This year the focus of the fair is on video art so if this is something that you’ve wanted to get into for awhile, now is the perfect time!

General entrance is €15 but there is a reduced price of €12 for students, pensioners and unemployed people.

More info on Art Madrid

3. JUST MAD

My personal favourite art fair is JUST MAD which has moved to the Palacio de Neptuno this year. I’ve been to JUST MAD two years in a row and I always really enjoy the selection of art on offer. It often has a wonderful group of paintings and photography. While it’s not as big as ARCO, it’s still fairly sizeable and I would recommend dedicating at least 2 or 3 hours to be able to see everything.

In an attempt to strengthen ties with their closest neighbour, Portugal is being featured at the fair this year. Just Mad is open to the public from Wednesday 26th to Sunday 3rd. General entry is €15 but it goes down to just €7 for students, pensioners and the unemployed, making it the most affordable one if you’re on a student visa.

More info on Just Madrid

4. Drawing Room

Another art fair that I usually try to attend is Drawing Room, which, as its name suggests, primarily highlights works of illustration. I’m always impressed by the selection of pieces I have seen there and it’s one of the smaller events so if you don’t think you could spend a whole day or several hours at an art fair, Drawing Room would probably be more to your liking.

This year Drawing Room takes place at the Palacio de Santa Barbara and it’s open to the public from this Thursday to Sunday. Tickets cost €10 but are half price for anyone under 18 or over 65.

More info on Drawing Room

5. Urvanity Art Fair

You may have seen some of the urban art installations that are taking the centre by storm right now like the cat in Callao or the colorful forms on Calle Fuencarral. Well, those installations are part of the Urvanity Art Fair. If you want really contemporary, cutting-edge work, this is the fair for you. It’s celebrating just its third edition this year and showcases post graffiti, new pop art and surrealist pop. If you have no idea what any of those words mean, no worries. Go to the fair and find out!

Urvanity takes place at COAM this year and it is open to the public from Friday to Sunday. Tickets cost just €10.

More info on Urvanity

6. Hybrid Art Fair

Finally, I’m going to wrap this up with HYBRID Art Fair which also takes place from Friday to Sunday. If you like your art provocative and genre-bending, then this is the fair for you. To make it even cooler and more intimate, it actually takes place inside a hotel, the Hotel Petit Palace Santa Barbara. If you’re going to Hybrid, I highly suggest buying your tickets online in advance as it’s a bit cheaper and if you want to go to more than one of these fairs, every bit counts!

More info on Hybrid Art Fair

So if you’ve got a puente this weekend and you’re not traveling, don’t feel bad! There’s so much for you to do in the city thanks to Madrid Art Week! You’ll need Monday off to recover. Enjoy!

By Kristen Wiltshire, admin of the Facebook group Madrid Art and Culture