Proper Sound Cafe: Toma Cafe’s newest venue combines local DJs with natural wines

Are you familiar with Toma Cafe? It’s a craft coffee shop that has made quite the buzz with locals and expats alike, and has been featured in Naked Madrid more than once for its quality coffee and hip vibes. But Santiago, the owner of Toma Cafe, has a new venture in Toma’s very own tostador. The coffee shop has partnered up with local DJs to bring you Proper Sound Cafe.

Proper Sound Cafe (also considered Toma Cafe 3) is quite new, opening its doors in July, though the idea—if the Instagram is an indication—was conceived pre-Covid days. Open only a few days a week as of now (get there Thursday-Saturday from 20-24), the tostador is small and intimate.

Wooden benches line the sides with extra stools in place for seating. In the back you can see the high-quality espresso machine used for making their infamous lattes, and of course the machines used to make their own beans. Then, there’s the DJ booth, framed by rows of vinyls and bottles of their wine selection. 

“I wanted to bring people together with good coffee, good wine, good cheeses, good music,” Santiago said when asked about the conception of Proper Sound Cafe as he sipped from a glass of tinto

And he’s not wrong. Besides being able to enjoy live music again (a missed form of communion amid the pandemic), this is complemented by their menu of artisanal beer and natural wines.

Natural wines are a traditional way of making wine, fermented, and with less additives. Having gone a few times now, I’ve tried all 3 of their offerings: white, red, and orange. And all three have surprised me with their depth of flavor and range. The waiters (or are they still considered baristas?) are knowledgeable about their wine menu. Just tell them if you want something suave or fuerte or what flavors you enjoy, and they’ll point you in the right direction. It led me to one of my favorites, Gilda from the Tiago Teles winery in Lisbon, Portugal, that was a mix of three types of grapes. Don’t forget to try their cheese board or their fresh hummus served with crackers. 

As for the music, Santiago goes with local DJs, some of them even close friends. The music ranges from classics to trip-hop to jazz (classic and future), and everything in between. The night that I went, @Giiansta was playing. I sipped on my Gilda with my friend enjoying her wine choice as D’Angelo’s ‘Feel Like Makin’ Love’ and Billie Holiday’s ‘You Go to My Head’ echoed from the overhead speakers.

The discotecas may be closed, but here at Proper Sound Cafe, I caught sight of a few people dancing when the music shifted towards disco and hip hop, with Beyonce’s ‘Drunk in Love’ playing among the mix. 

I spoke with Daniel, one of the baristas at Toma Cafe, on one of my first visits here, and asked him what their plans were. They hoped to expand towards daytime hours (which it seems they may be starting according to their Instagram), which is a great idea. I can only see this venue becoming more popular as time goes by and the cafe itself is quite intimate. 

Check out their Instagram where they post updates on type of music to expect for the upcoming weekend, the names of the DJs, and any change in hours. 

Proper Sound Cafe: 

  • Instagram: @propersoundcafe
  • Address: Calle de Raimundo Lulio, 16, 28010, Madrid
  • Metro: Line 2 (Iglesias)
  • Schedule: Thurs–Sat: 8pm–12am

By Jessica Ramos

Jessica is an LA-native freelance writer and teacher currently based in Madrid, Spain. When she’s not busy writing, she’s taking photos, watching horror films, and searching for rock bars around the city. Visit Jessica’s website and follow her on instagram: @artistandthecity




La Osita, great craft beer (and big plans) in La Latina

La Osita is a newly opened bar in the heart of La Latina, created by two beer lovers from the UK, David and Patrick, who are also the founders of the Madrid-based Oso Brew Co. Come pay them a visit, enjoy some refreshing beers and stay tuned, as they’ve got some very cool beer-related plans in the works!

How it all started

La Osita, locally crafted beer (and big plans) in La Latina

The story of La Osita started over ten years ago when David and Patrick met during Erasmus in Madrid (at an Irish pub), and they’ve been dreaming of coming back ever since. With David’s experience in the food and beverage industry, and Patrick’s experience working at one of London’s leading craft breweries, Anspach & Hobday, they make the perfect duo.

When they returned to Madrid a year ago, they founded Oso Brew Co. and started selling their beers at popups in Mercado de Vallehermoso, a great neighborhood food market. It was the perfect place to test their brews with the locals, as patrons could pair them with foods from a myriad of stalls. And they got particularly interesting feedback from the elderly Spaniards, who had been content with their Mahous yet ventured to try something new and liked it!

Just this March, they founded their own bar, La Osita, right on one of Madrid’s most beloved bar-hopping streets, Calle Cava Baja.

La Osita, locally crafted beer (and big plans) in La Latina

When you walk in you’ll see their daily beer selection listed on the chalkboard. The first two options are their homemade brews – citrus cream ale and cerveza de mesa (table beer) – which they make at a local brewery in Alcobendas, Cervecera Península.

La Osita, locally crafted beer (and big plans) in La Latina

Here’s what was listed on the chalkboard the day we went!

The day we went, they were also serving beer from A&H (UK) and Augustiner (Munich), as well as several types of Peninsula beers on tap – supporting and working with industry neighbors is important to them. They also offer a hand-picked selection of whiskeys, gins and wine. We didn’t get to try any of them, since we were busy sampling all the great beers, so we’ll have to go back!

What we had

La Osita bar Madrid

When we went to La Osita on a Saturday afternoon, we grabbed a seat at the bar so Patrick and David could tell us about Oso Brew’s story and all the beers they have on offer, as well as the exciting plans for the near future. As we were there, parties of Spaniards and foreigners alike were trickling in off La Cava Baja.

We sampled several different types of beers they had on tap that night. We started off with their home brews. My favorite was the citrus one – it was light and really refreshing, and had the perfect touch of citrus. And James’ favorite was the table beer, because it was clean, balanced and “so easy to drink.”

La Osita, locally crafted beer (and big plans) in La Latina

We also tried the Galactic Sunrise from Peninsula, which had an intense burst of flavor that came from “double dry hopping” (you can ask the guys what that means!). And we finished off with a delicious dark beer, Three Threads Porter from Anspach & Hobday. It had chocolate and coffee flavors that derive primarily from the malts used and how they’re roasted. Fun fact: apparently, this is a favorite among the elderly Spanish women.

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The front area is small enough that you’ll likely strike up a conversation with the party next to you. And that’s perfectly fine. There are also a few tables in the back where you can sit down with your friends. David said it can be used for birthday parties and the like (just call ahead to book).

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Although they don’t currently offer a menu, they make it a point to maintain the (wonderful) tradition of offering complementary tapas with every round of drinks. And not just potato chips, but good chorizo and cheese.

What’s in store: a restaurant and brew pub!

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They have a kitchen downstairs where they’re planning on inviting up-and-coming chefs to work for three to four months at a time. They’re also planning on opening a “brew pub” in the near future (a hybrid between a brewery and a pub). There’s no set location yet but they want it to be within the “M-30.”

So for now, come check out La Osita on Cava Baja and grab yourself a drink (or two, or three). If you’re not sure what kind of beer to order, Patrick and David will be happy to tell you all about the different options and even let you taste them before you make your final decision. And if you’re not in the mood for beer, they’ll fix you a G&T, a glass of whiskey, or a copa de vino. Cheers! 

Photography by Matthew Curtis (pelliclemag.com & totalales.co.uk)

La Osita

 




9 Low-key rooftop bars in Madrid to enjoy year round

This city may be landlocked, but the sky’s the limit when it comes to rooftop bars in Madrid. From fancy restaurant-hotels like Picalagartos and Hotel Óscar, to emblematic buildings like Palacio de Cibeles and the picture-perfect Tartan Roof at Círculo de Bellas Artes, the options seem endless. And if you’re in the mood for something a little more casual, we’ve got you covered.

Here are our top picks for rooftop bars in Madrid that are low key and winter friendly.

1. The Hat

Photo from The Hat Madrid

Photo from The Hat Madrid

This popular rooftop bar is located atop one of the city’s coolest hostels, right off Plaza Mayor. It provides a great escape from Madrid’s crowded center. Pop up for a few drinks with friends or a full meal, whatever you fancy.

Check out our full post on The Hat Madrid

2. Mercado de San Antón

This is a perfect place to start your evening with friends. As you enter Chueca’s beloved food market, Mercado de San Antón, first you’ll walk through various food stalls and tapas stands. Then make your way up to the fourth floor for a drink any time of day, any time of year.

 

3. El Viajero

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This plant-laden rooftop bar has been a staple in La Latina for years. Situated atop El Viajero restaurant, it offers a laidback atmosphere, plus a full bar and food options. It’s a great place to spend a winter evening with friends.

4. Gymage

Photo from Gymage

Photo from Gymage

Gymage is a multi-level recreation center located in Plaza de la Luna, just off Gran Vía. Inside you’ll find everything from a full-on gym to a health food store. But the best part is the two-level rooftop lounge with a bar, restaurant, and pool! Although you don’t get to take a dip in winter, you still get to take in that chill Ibiza vibe and enjoy those gorgeous Madrid sunsets.

5. Forus Barceló

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This spacious rooftop restaurant is a green oasis in the middle of Chueca and Malasaña. Situated atop the Barceló food market, here you can enjoy creative and healthy cuisine, in a friendly urban garden environment. It’s also open every day of the week.

  • WebsiteFacebook & Instagram: @azoteaforus
  • Address: Calle Barceló 6
  • Metro: Tribunal and Alonso Martínez

6. Doña Luz

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This is one of the newest rooftop bars in Madrid, situated right in the heart of Sol, on Calle Montera. The street-level entrance is tiny, so it’s easy to miss. But once you enter the Doña Luz Hotel, squeeze through the door and take the elevator to the top floor. There you’ll find plenty of room to enjoy a nice break on the roof. There’s an indoor and outdoor area, plus a full restaurant and bar.

7. Jardín Secreto

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This rooftop is also situated on Calle Montera, and it’s called Jardín Secreto (although it’s not that much of a secret anymore). Step inside the accessories store, Salvador Bachiller, and take the elevator up to the top floor to discover a small yet charming rooftop absolutely covered in plants and flowers. Although you won’t find much of a view, you will discover a nice change of scenery from the busy city center.

8. Mercado de San Ildefonso

Mercado de San Ildefonso by Naked Madrid

This isn’t exactly a rooftop bar, but it still deserves a spot on our list. This outdoor terrace is located inside an ultra modern food market in Malasaña, Mercado de San Ildefonso, right on Calle Fuencarral. So once you grab a drink and a bite to eat from the array of food stalls, find a seat in this fun patio area.

9. Casa de Granada

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In Tirso de Molina, you’ll find Casa Granada situated on the top floor of an unassuming residential building. This rather old-school restaurant has been around for ages and is definitely the least “chic” option on the list. The menu features traditional Spanish dishes, from croquetas to patatas bravas. It’s well insulated during the chillier months of the year and when the awnings are up, you get great views of the heart of the city.

  • Website, Facebook
  • Address: Calle del Doctor Cortezo, 17
  • Metro: Tirso de Molina

Did we miss any other low-key rooftop bars in Madrid open year round? Let us know and we’ll add them to the list!




Picalagartos, dine sky high on a stunning rooftop overlooking Gran Vía

This year myself and one of my best friends have been on pretty different trajectories. Whilst she’s been globe trotting galore having taken a sabbatical, I’ve never felt more aware of putting down “roots” – having finally become a home owner, cue quite the case of FOMO.
After 11 months of not being able to enjoy so much as a glass of fizz together in person, last weekend we were finally reunited for the puente in my adopted city of Madrid. This called for a special venue for a special lunch.

Picalagartos rooftop restaurant Madrid

Now I love a rooftop. I’m not sure if it’s something to do with being a city dweller who’s constantly on the search for cleaner air, but I feel it’s probably more to do with the “grammable” views that are pretty much guaranteed when you head sky high.

Having done my research, Picalagartos was booked, the restaurant perched atop the NH Hotel on Gran Vía, boasts 360 views of the city. Not too shabby, eh? Now most hotel restaurants have a bad rep, often found to be overpriced and underwhelming, but not the case here. The standard of food matched the view, to be summed up in a word, it was stunning.

Picalagartos rooftop restaurant Madrid

Feeling the kind of giddy high that I can only imagine toddlers feel at soft play, we started with a cocktail to toast our reunion. This was the start of a true Spanish sobremesa, with neither of us keen to leave until the sun had well and truly set over Gran Vía.

My friend’s a veggie (no I don’t know how we dine out together either, being a self-confessed carnivore Queen) but it was pleasing to find that this wasn’t an issue – the menu offering a variety of veggie options, all of which were more tempting than the standard offering of tortilla.
Picalagartos rooftop restaurant Madrid

We split a mille feuille of patatas bravas that is in the running for being the best carb that’s ever passed my lips. Layers of buttery potatoes formed into giant “chips” were served with a piquant bravas sauce and a mouth-wateringly good aioli. They were so downright divine, case in point, we ordered a second portion and not one part of me regrets having to work them off the following Monday at spin.

Picalagartos rooftop restaurant Madrid

I plumped for a steak (cooked perfectly), while my amiga sampled the delights of a vegetable garden – which looked so temptingly tasty that it could almost have lured me away from my meaty marvel, but not quite.

Picalagartos rooftop restaurant Madrid

A couple of chocolate soufflés later, gin and tonics sunk – our vows of friendship reaffirmed, there was nothing left to do but harass the waiter to take (multiple) pics of us with Madrid in all her dusky delight in the background – luckily he obliged, I have a feeling we weren’t the only ones bowled over by the vista.

Picalagartos rooftop restaurant Madrid

Picalagartos is the kind of “oooh and aaah” inducing spot that will have you falling in love with Madrid all over again (in case your affections have ever waned). The food, and in my case, the friendship, were faultless and it was the perfect place to spend a free Friday afternoon that combined both gorgeous grub and plenty of glamour.

Picalagartos




Espacio Cervecero, Mini Mahou Brewery in Madrid

Mentally bookmarked for more than a couple months, we finally stepped into Espacio Cervecero Mahou in Alonso Martínez and were not let down. Having no expectations allowed us to be surprised at every turn in this small but compact venue. It’s a little bit brewery and tasting space, a little bit restaurant, a bit gift shop and a bit urban art showroom.
It’s perfect if you’ve got family or friends visiting or no plans on any given evening. You’ll certainly be surprised by this unusual center of Madrid find. Did you know Mahou is a family-run business? Or that they made a Stout? And an APA (American Pale Ale)?
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At Espacio Cervecero each is served on an individually descriptive coaster for each beer but your “beersommelier” will tell you all about it anyway. These little details are what makes this place unique. It feels small in square meters but packs a lot.
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There are few beers on tap but this allows for more information to be revealed regarding each one. Before you leave, you’ll be asked to evaluate what you’ve tried on one of a few iPads set opposite the bar.
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If you go through the graffiti and mirror covered hallway, you’ll reach the restaurant. Like myself, you may be distracted by the exposed industrial decor but don’t forget to grab a board game to play at your table on your way in if you like.
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You’ll find that the menu is limited but gourmet and ideal for tasting a few different plates. Our waitress suggested we try the ensaladilla rusa (potato salad) which we did and she was right; it was definitely an elevated take on the typical bar food.
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There are events at the bar which you can join like a guided “micro brewery” tour, a beer tasting for newbies and one for more seasoned beer drinkers – an international workshop in which beers are brought in from Belgium, Central Europe and Great Britain for tasting and learning.
And though there isn’t much information on it, there also appears to be a cooking class using, you guessed it, Mahou!  However, it isn’t clear whether you watch or actually cook.
In the end, we saw Mahou’s classier side and we’d definitely go back.
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By Caitlin English

Espacio Cervecero

  • Website
  • Address: Calle de Génova, 5
  • Metro: Alonso Martinez, Colon
  • Hours: Open everyday from 12pm-midnight (closed on Sundays)

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Not much not to love at NuBel – The Reina Sofia’s stunning restaurant

We really are spoilt in Spain. From the glorious blue skies to the culture of napping not being frowned upon, we really do enjoy the good life. So when it rains, I have to admit that I’ve become one of those people who hunkers down and reaches for the remote and Netflix.

However, this last Saturday, in spite of the torrential rain and the fact that my hair was starting to look more and more like Rod Stewart’s (I’ll thank the humidity for that) I donned my gladrags and kept my dinner date at NuBel – the quite frankly stunning setting that’s part of the Reina Sofia museum on the south side of the city.
NuBel Restaurant inside Madrid's Reina Sofia Museum

So before a mere morsel had passed my lips, the first thing that floored me on arrival was the space. Lofty and chic, yet deceptively cosy, NuBel is kind of like entering a club, albeit, one without the sticky carpets and two for one drinks that littered my youth. There was a DJ playing dance classics that I remembered from the days where I didn’t turn into a pumpkin if I stayed out past midnight; and the whole ‘vibe’ was one of people ready to party (just not on an empty stomach).

So having taken our seats for dinner (pretty pink velvet ones in case you’re interested) we plumped for some cocktails, a pisco sour for me and a ‘hard drink’ for my pal – I can attest, it was indeed strong, absinthe will do that I guess.fullsizeoutput_4ddf

We perused the menu and our waiter, Angel, suggested that we try a range of the mini plates so that we could salivate over a spectrum of flavours. I think we ordered ten in total and each little bite was as delicious as the last. I loved the mange tout falafel with feta, while my amiga lapped to the snow crab cocktail. The mains were every bit as delectable as the desserts. I don’t have the sweetest tooth but my deconstructed lemon meringue pie was so good that I was not one for sharing.

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However, food aside, what I really loved about NuBel was the atmosphere. So often these days I go for dinner and feel ready to be rolled home, the lure of my pyjamas too great to resist. NuBel manages to straddle the line of being a restaurant/club perfectly – the music will have your toe tapping away and ready to ditch the dessert in favour of the dance floor.

NuBel Restaurant inside Madrid's Reina Sofia Museum

For art aficionados, the proximity to renowned works from the likes of Picasso, adds that little extra pizazz that a regular restaurant would find hard to rival.

All photos from NuBel

NuBel

 




Café Viralata – craft beer, delicious sandwiches, and live music

Jay (Dominican) and Selvi (Italian) are a music-loving couple who decided to put their passion for art and craft beer to good use: in June 2018, they opened Café Viralata in Lavapiés.

While it may be a new bar (with killer decor), it has nothing to do with the wave of pricey hipster joints that has flooded the neighborhood in recent years. No, señor, this place has some very simple raisons d’etre: good music, good food, and good vibes at more-than-reasonable prices.

The facade piques the interest of passersby with some sassy paintings of doggos (thanks to @ramon_amoros_ilustrador) and a blackboard announcing the bar’s upcoming events (more on that later).

Café Viralata by Naked Madrid

Once inside, we start with what’s important: beer! You’ve got everything from your classic Estrella Galicia to impressive local IPAs. They’ve been working closely with the local brewer community, specifically the guys at Abeerzing, to learn more about “el mundo cervecero.” So the beer list is constantly growing and changing.

Café Viralata is also the first bar in Madrid to serve Beertag, a brand new beer from La Rioja brewed by Slezia Albino, one of Jay’s oldest friends in Madrid from film school.

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As for wine, they of course offer Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Verdejo, and Albariño, but they also recommend wines from Madrid, Alicante, Catalunya, Portugal, and Italy, and their “tinto de verano” is actually made with an Australian wine. As Jay says, if you’re a purist, you’ve really gotta keep an open mind here.

Once you’ve got your drink, you’ll probably want something to snack on (if you give a mouse a cookie…). Café Viralata goes way beyond your typical tortilla and olives.

Get started with appetizers like the hummus plate and the avocado toast, and if you’re looking for something more substantial, go for one of their sandwiches, which are made with love on fresh sourdough bread from the folks at bakery Madre Hizo Pan.

A house favorite is “La Piernotta,” a Dominican-Italian version of the typical Dominican “sandwich de pierna” with porchetta (Italian, roasted, oven-baked pork) with smoked scamorza cheese, green peppers, and red onions.

And yes, they also have fabulous vegetarian and vegan options.

Lastly, if you have a sweet tooth like me, you can’t leave without trying the homemade tiramisu, lovingly crafted by @lacucinadicarlo (who also provide their pastrami).

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Once you’ve got your food and drink sorted, head to the back of the bar to check out what makes this place truly special: an intimate venue, complete with a piano (that Selvi’s mom sent them from Italy!), guitars, a projector, two rows of chairs (I said intimate!), and lots of vinyl records to thumb through.

This space offers anything from live acoustic concerts to independent film screenings, theater, micro-theater, poetry readings, spoken word, stand-up comedy, magic shows…

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It just doesn’t get much better than that.

Oh, and if you’re wondering what “viralata” means, this is what Jay had to say about it:

In the Dominican Republic, and also in Portuguese-speaking countries such as Brazil, a ‘VIRALATA’ is what a stray dog and/or any animal or person of mixed race is called. ‘VIRAR’ means ‘TO TURN’ and ‘LATA’ means ‘CAN’, a reference to the way that strays ‘turn cans’ while searching for food; in our café, though, we’re strippin’ away any negative aspect that surviving and struggling through life may have in our modern society. The struggle is real and it makes us better people! So turn cans, dear viralatas, turn those freakin’ cans!

Me apunto.

PS: Stay tuned for Café Viralata’s grand opening party…

Info

  • Instagram & Facebook
  • Address: Calle Olivar, 17
  • Metro: Tirso de Molina, Antón Martín, or Lavapiés
  • Phone: +34 912 96 88 26



Sala Equis – impress your friends with lunch in an old XXX theatre

Lunch at a once-was pornography theatre in Madrid is not what anyone expects and is exactly why you must go. The gem that awaits you is hardly recognizable from the street but once you arrive at Tirso de Molina metro, you’re just feet away.

Once inside Sala Equis, pass the popcorn machine and “taquilla” and go down towards the sun-soaked covered patio with two-story-high skylights. The natural light makes it a little difficult to see the main screen but it ironically plays second fiddle to the overall ambience.

Sala Equis by Naked Madrid

During our afternoon visit, the suspended screen played an old black-and-white movie that blended into the background amongst the greenery and food and drink counter. According to Sala Equis’ website, there are often concerts in this same space though we weren’t privy to see any that day.

Sala Equis by Naked Madrid

Lunchtime turned out to be the ideal hour considering there was plenty of options for spaces to sit and eat but there were enough people to kickstart the pre-Saturday night feeling. We skipped the lawn chairs, swings and stadium-style seating and opted for some iron loveseats with tables.

The menu can’t be described as one thing or another since it offers a bit of it all. We had the vegan burger with fries (€9), a flatbread pizza with fig and goat’s cheese (€7.50), a quiche with bleu cheese and squash (€5.50), a couple of kimchi and shrimp wraps (€8 each).

Sala Equis by Naked Madrid

Sala Equis by Naked Madrid

Sala Equis by Naked Madrid

The food was interesting, much like the locale. There’s also Mahou on tap and a full bar.

Apart from the covered patio, there is still a functioning movie theatre. Though the genre originally screened is no longer, one can still find the red velvet couches that you could only imagine to be found in a former pornography movie theatre.

Currently, Sala Equis plays all original version films (with subtitles). This month, classics like Chitty Bang Bang are playing alongside Big Fish and Lady Bird. Odd choices they may seem, but the selections are unexpectedly refreshing. Film tickets run about €6.50.

By Caitlin Mackenzie

Sala Equis

 

 




Living Room Concerts – Weekend “Planazo” in Madrid

In Madrid there are hundreds, if not thousands of things to do on any given weekend. Doing a quick Google search for live music, for example, will show you multiple Top Ten lists of the most well-known spots. However, you won’t find a live music venue more intimate than that of Living Room Concerts. It’s just like it sounds: concerts held in people’s living rooms and you’re invited.

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Born in, yes, a living room, it was Nichole Hastings’ idea to bring emerging and little known artists and their original music into the spotlight. In nomadic spirit, LRC moves around Madrid to different pre-approved flats in all barrios spreading new independent music around the city to as many guests as the particular living room (and guest list) can hold.

Living Room Concerts Madrid

LRC has even put down roots in one fixed location in Malasaña, a cultural community center called el Salón del Artista. On arrival, be prepared to be ushered in with a warm welcome from the owner of the flat and then find a seat so you can comfortably listen to the original music and stories behind the songs from, often bilingual, artists.

Living Room Concerts Madrid

Once inside, it’s easy to see that the diverse crowd has arrived expecting to meet new people and listen to original music that they couldn’t hear anywhere else.

Living Room Concerts Madrid

During any given concert you could hear independent Spanish artists singing in English or a multicultural group singing in some combination of languages. Because of this, the concerts feel inclusive and not limited to any particular group or musical taste.

Living Room Concerts Madrid

If you’re in Madrid alone or with friends, LRC will sit you within feet of an independent artist and among members of the Living Room Concerts’ community in Madrid.

Info

  • Follow LRC on Facebook & Instagram
  • To attend, the reservations work on the honor system but you do have to sign up through their Facebook page or their MeetUp.com page.
  • Price: The event has a very reasonable cover which can be turned into a “cover + open bar” for 3 euros more. Towards the end of the concert you can make a donation which goes right to the artists you’ve just met.
  • Links to artists who’ve recently performed: TaiacoreBeMyFiascoDavid Roma 

By Caitlin Mackenzie




Tapapiés: a guide to everyone’s favorite food and culture festival in Lavapiés

It’s that time of year again. The air is turning chilly, the leaves are starting to change, and the millennial obsession with all things autumn is taking over social media. But here in Madrid, there’s a whole different reason to be excited. With October comes Tapapiés, the annual festival that inundates the streets of the Lavapiés neighborhood with delicious food, cheap drinks, and live music.

For 11 days at the end of October (this year’s 7th edition lasts from October 19—29), dozens of restaurants and bars in Lavapiés offer a very special deal. Each one develops their own signature tapa, and offers it to the public for just €1.50. For an extra euro, you can also get a botellín (a 250 ml bottle of beer) to wash it down. The event is sponsored by Barcelona’s Estrella Damm, and at most places you can choose between a regular beer or Damm Lemon (beer and lemon soda).

A bar advertises its participation in Tapapiés with the festival's official poster.

A bar advertises its participation in Tapapiés with the festival’s official poster.

Lavapiés is known for its incredible cultural diversity, with large immigrant populations from all over Africa, South America, the Middle East, and Central Asia. As a result, it’s full of international eateries offering everything from Senegalese thieboudienne to Syrian sweets. A good number of these establishments participate in Tapapiés, which means that in one night you can practically eat your way around the world, just by exploring the neighborhood’s sloping streets.

The delicious "Crepioca" tapa from Saboor Tapioca in Lavapiés

The delicious “Crepioca” tapa from Saboor Tapioca

In other words, this festival is every adventurous foodie’s dream come true. There are various strategies for tackling the overwhelming amount of options (122 tapas in total) and chaotic crowds. You can simply wander around, dropping into whatever bars you come across and trying your luck. Each one usually advertises a photograph of their tapa with a huge poster out front, so you’ll know more or less what to expect. Don’t forget to stop by Mercado de San Fernando and Mercado Antón Martín, where several vendors also participate.

A tray of tapas at Toscanaccio Italian bakery in Lavapiés

A tray of tapas at Toscanaccio Italian bakery: marinated eggplant, walnuts, goat cheese, and sun-dried tomato pesto on spelt bread

If you’re (A) a picky/allergy-prone eater or (B) determined to try as many different tapas as possible, you might want to consider a more organized strategy. Ask for a brochure at any of the participating places—you’ll get a pocket-sized booklet that contains a list of every single tapa being offered, as well as a color photograph and a detailed ingredients list for each. They’re all plotted on a numbered map, so you can plan out your ideal route. Be warned, though: it’s hard to stick to a set plan when there are so many tempting options around every corner.

Dishing out the "Moqueca de Mandioca con Pesto" tapa at Maloka Bar Brasileiro in Lavapiés

Dishing out the special tapa at Maloka Bar Brasileiro: yuca in a coconut milk sauce with peanut pesto

My advice? Grab a group of friends who aren’t afraid to elbow their way through some crowds and try as many new things as possible. This is not an activity for those who would rather settle in at a cozy restaurant for a relaxed dinner.

Expect to eat standing up while balancing a beer in one hand a a tapa in the other, and shouting at each other just to be heard. It’s messy, it’s crazy, it’s loud—and it’s totally worth it.  The frenetic and colorful spirit of the neighborhood is never more alive than on a night of Tapapiés.

"Carrillada melosa" from Maldito Querer in Lavapiés

“Carrillada melosa” from Maldito Querer: braised beef cheeks in a sauce of caramelized onion, garlic, herbs, and Pedro Ximénez reduction

To complete the experience, it’s essential to attend one of the various outdoor performances by local musicians, dancers, and entertainers that take place throughout the event. On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons and evenings, you can catch live music and shows at nine different designated spots (a full schedule is included in the brochure). There’s also the simultaneous Chollopiés festival, which spotlights the neighborhood’s local businesses by offering special discounts on certain products.

Plaza de Lavapiés on a night of Tapapiés

Maybe you live in Lavapiés and want to get to know your barrio better. Maybe you’ve never been and want to see what all the hype is about. Or maybe you’re just hungry, thirsty, and low on cash. Whatever the case, Tapapiés is bound to become one of your favorite events in Madrid. If you go into it with the right mindset, a healthy appetite, and a handful of coins, I guarantee that come next October, there’ll only be one thing on your mind. Who needs pumpkin spice lattes, anyway?

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Check out our roundup of Tapapiés’ offerings last year!