When I landed in Madrid nearly three years ago now, one of my first orders of business was to figure out where the city’s poetry community hung out. And I have to admit, it wasn’t as easy as I had expected, given Madrid’s reputation as a romantic and literary city.

But with time, I found some incredible little corners of the capital that attract talented and passionate poets from around the globe. Here are some of my favorite spots.

Desperate Literature

Photo courtesy of Desperate Literature

Desperate Literature is one of those cozy little bookshops that make you feel instantly at home. But they offer more than just books (in Spanish, English, and French)—they put on events like poetry readings, chess nights, intimate concerts, and meet-the-author nights. Poets of all walks of life gather in this tiny space to connect, exchange ideas, and perhaps enjoy a cheeky glass of whiskey. Check out our full-length post about Desperate Literature here.

• Address: Calle de Campomanes, 13
• Metro: Ópera or Santo Domingo
• Facebook & Instagram
• Phone: 911 88 80 89

El Intruso

Photo courtesy of Poetry Slam Madrid

Just off Gran Vía, this venue is spacious with a unique layout: designed in an L shape, one area is lined with couches and the other, the stage and dance floor—unlike other poetry hotspots in the city, Intruso Bar is first and foremost a place to cut a rug under the neon lights ‘til the sun comes up. On Mondays they have jam sessions (that usually lean towards jazz and R&B) and on weekends they have scheduled concerts, comedy shows, and you guessed it, poetry readings.

The first Wednesday of each month, El Intruso lends its stage to Poetry Slam Madrid, where 12 poets give 3-minute performances. It’s just 6 euros and includes a drink, and anyone can sign up here (first come, first serve): participarslam@gmail.com. It’s a buzzing community of young, international artists that you don’t want to miss.

• Address: Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 3
• Metro: Gran Vía, Chueca, or Tribunal 
• Facebook & website

Vergüenza Ajena

Photo credit: camareroponmeunverso.blogspot.com

Any time I see a place that calls itself a “bar-librería,” I’m already sold. Vergüenza Ajena does it all: delicious homemade food, well-priced drinks, a laidback atmosphere with friendly service, and events that lure in the poetry community (namely readings). If you go on a night where there’s no event planned, there are hundreds of books to keep you occupied. I also hear the salmorejo is the best in town.

• Address: Calle de Galileo, 56
• Metro: Quevedo or Moncloa
• Facebook
• Phone: 912 97 70 34

Café Libertad 8

Photo credit: lanocheenvivo.com

You’d be hard-pressed to find anything else like Libertad 8 in the capital. It’s a traditional, no-frills bar where primarily Spanish artists gather to do nothing more than share their love of music, poetry, painting, storytelling, photography, and more. It’s neither hipster nor pricey, despite its prime location in the buzzing Chueca neighborhood. Skip the tourist crowd, grab a glass of cava, and meet the passionate poets of Madrid.

• Address: Calle Libertad, 8
• Metro: Chueca or Banco de España
• Facebook & Instagram
• Phone: 915 32 11 50

• Address: Plaza de Gabriel Miró, 1
• Metro: La Latina
• Facebook & Instagram
• Phone: 680 37 31 08

In addition to frequenting these amazing spaces, you can also connect with Madrid’s poetry community by joining Facebook groups such as Poetas en Madrid, following pages like Poetry Slam Madrid, and staying in the loop on all things culture on Madrid’s official website for cultural events in the city.

Four years ago I stumbled upon a newly opened gem, Desperate Literature. I immediately went in, spoke to the staff (who were practically still building the place), and wrote an article about it: Desperate Literature, for book lovers in Brooklyn, Santorini and now Madrid.

Something about it felt so homey to me. Perhaps it was the English-speaking staff, the familiar titles on the shelves, or the fact that they were playing my brother’s kind of music. It just felt like I was stepping into an avid reader’s living room in New York rather than a bookshop in Madrid.

I haven’t stopped going back since. Many of the times I’ve gone in with friends and family, we’ve either been offered a cup of green tea or a glass of whiskey. Naked Madrid even co-hosted a Valentine’s event there in 2015. I remember there being lots of mulled wine, chocolate, and a discount in the erotica section.

So much has changed since then, yet the same wonderful vibe and essence remains. The staff is still rotating, international and friendly as ever. The book selection of both new and old titles in English, French and Spanish keeps on growing. With so many great additions, it was time for a new article, with updated pics too.

First some background info

For anyone who hasn’t been yet, Desperate Literature sells by far the best selection of English books in the city, from art and philosophy to history and sociology. Plus a nice “boozy books” section where you get a shot of free whiskey with every purchase. You can also find titles in other languages, as well as handpicked rare editions, signed copies, tote bags, postcards, maps, and more. There’s even a kids’ section!

Desperate Literature was founded by hardcore book fanatics: Craig Walzer (UK), Corey Eastwood (US), Charlotte Delattre (France) and Terry Craven (UK). Between them, they also own Atlantis Books in Santorini, Greece, and Book Thug Nation and Human Relations in Brooklyn, New York.

Charlotte and Terry are currently running the shop (and living upstairs). Before coming to Madrid, they both worked for several years at the world-famous Paris bookshop Shakespeare and Company. Lucky for us, they’re bringing the same philosophy to Desperate Literature, making it much more than a bookshop – it’s also a community, event space, publishing house, and a home. According to Terry:

“Desperate Literature’s aim is to create a place where people meet for and through literature and to that end we’re developing not only our stock, focusing on having the best literature in English, Spanish and French, but a whole array of literary events, a literary magazine and all types of literary collaborations.”

Great events: readings, concerts, and more

Desperate Literature has truly blossomed into an international haven for literature and art. It collaborates with local and expat writers, poets, musicians, and artists on a regular basis. They constantly put on cozy concerts, trivia nights, chess events, readings, and talks, as well as fun holiday-themed events like Bloomsday and Christmas sing-alongs. All these intimate events are healthily booze-infused, and usually cost just €3 entry including a drink.

Children’s corner

In the back you’ll find a very sweet children’s corner full of class titles that will make you feel nostalgic, from Dr. Seuss to Roald Dahl. There’s also a cute little couch where you can curl up with a good read.

First literary prize

Desperate Literature launched its very own short fiction prize this year, receiving over 450 entries. They offered a €1000 prize, a stay at the beautiful Civitella Ranieri foundation, and publication in various literary magazines, as well as events at Desperate Literature and Shakespeare and Company.

We’ll be launching again in December 2018 and (hopefully) every year to come, with the aim of putting our small bookshop on the international scene for excellent experimental fiction written today.

And first magazine and book!

The shortlist from the fiction prize even led to the publishing of Desperate Literature’s first book “Eleven Stories” in April. And they put out their first magazine last year, La Errante.

While all these additions are undeniably impressive (and there’s certainly more in store), what speaks to me most is that the shop continues to feel as warm and cozy as ever, almost as if you were walking into a friend’s personal library. Plus the music is great, the signs are quirky, and you’re likely to make a friend or get offered a drink if you stick around awhile.

If you’re interested in getting to know more about Desperate Literature, definitely stop in and say hello. For more info, here’s an insightful article written by Katie Dycus: Portrait of a Bookstore: Desperate Literature (Madrid).

Desperate Literature

• Facebook, Website & Instagram
  Address: Calle Campomanes, 13
  Metro: Santo Domingo, Opera, and Callao

• Facebook, Website
• Address: Augusto Figueroa 21
• Metro: Chueca

Jay (Dominican) and Selvi (Italian) are a music-loving couple who decided to put their passion for art and craft beer to good use: in June 2018, they opened Café Viralata in Lavapiés.

While it may be a new bar (with killer decor), it has nothing to do with the wave of pricey hipster joints that has flooded the neighborhood in recent years. No, señor, this place has some very simple raisons d’etre: good music, good food, and good vibes at more-than-reasonable prices.

The facade piques the interest of passersby with some sassy paintings of doggos (thanks to @ramon_amoros_ilustrador) and a blackboard announcing the bar’s upcoming events (more on that later).

Once inside, we start with what’s important: beer! You’ve got everything from your classic Estrella Galicia to impressive local IPAs. They’ve been working closely with the local brewer community, specifically the guys at Abeerzing, to learn more about “el mundo cervecero.” So the beer list is constantly growing and changing.

Café Viralata is also the first bar in Madrid to serve Beertag, a brand new beer from La Rioja brewed by Slezia Albino, one of Jay’s oldest friends in Madrid from film school.

As for wine, they of course offer Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Verdejo, and Albariño, but they also recommend wines from Madrid, Alicante, Catalunya, Portugal, and Italy, and their “tinto de verano” is actually made with an Australian wine. As Jay says, if you’re a purist, you’ve really gotta keep an open mind here.

Once you’ve got your drink, you’ll probably want something to snack on (if you give a mouse a cookie…). Café Viralata goes way beyond your typical tortilla and olives.

Get started with appetizers like the hummus plate and the avocado toast, and if you’re looking for something more substantial, go for one of their sandwiches, which are made with love on fresh sourdough bread from the folks at bakery Madre Hizo Pan.

A house favorite is “La Piernotta,” a Dominican-Italian version of the typical Dominican “sandwich de pierna” with porchetta (Italian, roasted, oven-baked pork) with smoked scamorza cheese, green peppers, and red onions.

And yes, they also have fabulous vegetarian and vegan options.

Lastly, if you have a sweet tooth like me, you can’t leave without trying the homemade tiramisu, lovingly crafted by @lacucinadicarlo (who also provide their pastrami).

Once you’ve got your food and drink sorted, head to the back of the bar to check out what makes this place truly special: an intimate venue, complete with a piano (that Selvi’s mom sent them from Italy!), guitars, a projector, two rows of chairs (I said intimate!), and lots of vinyl records to thumb through.

This space offers anything from live acoustic concerts to independent film screenings, theater, micro-theater, poetry readings, spoken word, stand-up comedy, magic shows…

It just doesn’t get much better than that.

Oh, and if you’re wondering what “viralata” means, this is what Jay had to say about it:

In the Dominican Republic, and also in Portuguese-speaking countries such as Brazil, a ‘VIRALATA’ is what a stray dog and/or any animal or person of mixed race is called. ‘VIRAR’ means ‘TO TURN’ and ‘LATA’ means ‘CAN’, a reference to the way that strays ‘turn cans’ while searching for food; in our café, though, we’re strippin’ away any negative aspect that surviving and struggling through life may have in our modern society. The struggle is real and it makes us better people! So turn cans, dear viralatas, turn those freakin’ cans!

Me apunto.

PS: Stay tuned for Café Viralata’s grand opening party…

Info

• Instagram & Facebook
• Address: Calle Olivar, 17
• Metro: Tirso de Molina, Antón Martín, or Lavapiés
• Phone: +34 912 96 88 26