Harina, for something sweet or savoury

The temperature inside Harina is usually cranked well above the temperature of the street, thereby increasing the coziness factor. Within the walls of this white, bright, and charming locale lies one of the most satisfying menús in the city.

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Available for both lunch and dinner, the menú begins with a luscious green salad dressed with sweet balsamic vinegar. The whole bowl of greens, a mealtime rarity when eating out in Spain, is like a pot of nutritious gold. Eating the salad, however, is just a warmup exercise for diving into a sprawling slab of pizza.

Harina bakery and cafe by Naked Madrid

Keep gulping wine and it may feel as though the pizza has a magnetic force. The glowing light of the interior only becomes softer the less wine remaining in your glass. Thin crust, thick pieces of bacon, a runny fried egg perched in the middle–need I say more? Cut a piece away from the pie and cheese strings out like a game of cat’s cradle.

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Other menu options do exist, but this one consistently pleases. Dessert is not included in the menu, rather a pot of tea or a cup of coffee seals the meal. Baked goods can wait for another day–maybe when an entire pizza is not taking up stomach real estate.

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Harina is a merienda dream come true. Whatever sweet tooth whimsy you may harbor, sugary goodness awaits behind the glass cases. The meringues have rock hard shells, but they shatter into smithereens, and what is left is a sugary marshmallow pillow.

Harina bakery and cafe by Naked Madrid

Other desserts can be hit or miss depending on how freshly they were baked. The carrot cake was dry on a recent visit, but Harina gets brownie points for presentation and a mediocre cake can be forgiven.

Harina bakery and cafe by Naked Madrid

Multiple locations around the city, prices vary.

Here’s their Facebook page and web.

You’ll find one of their nicest locations inside Plaza de la Independencia, right next to Puerta de Alcalá and a hop skip away from Plaza de Cibeles.

After a trip to a nearby museum, you may want to pop into Harina for a coffee or snack. Here’s an article on Madrid’s known and not-so-known art institutions, many of which are located near Harina.




Taberna Griega, a real neighborhood Greek restaurant in Madrid

It took me seven years of searching, but only one bite to know I had finally discovered Madrid’s most authentic Greek restaurant, Taberna Griega.

Although I grew up in New York City, my father was born and raised in Greece. Like many Greek-American families, we were the proud owners of a Greek restaurant. We also took regular month-long summer vacations to Greece, eating our way through small mountain villages, seaside spots and family gatherings large and small. So I do feel somewhat of an authority on Greek food to tell you that Taberna Griega is the real deal!

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Taberna Griega is owned and run by Teo, a Greek man from Volos who has been living in Madrid for 37 years. Located in a residential neighborhood near metro Pacífico, this restaurant is the kind of place you won’t find out about in guidebooks, mainly because of its location and lack of modernity, which is precisely what gives it its charm. I only heard about it from a friend who lives in the area.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

The after-dinner shot lit all our throats on fire, except for Kaloyan, who says it’s nothing compared to some Bulgarian alcohols he’s tried. I’ll take his word for it.

My friends and I had been planning on getting Greek food for a while because we like to try each other’s home cuisine. We’ve gone to Taberna Bulgara with Kaloyan, and to a Filipino restaurant with Lorelie. With James it’s pretty easy, as he’s from Spain. With Edison, however, it’s a bit tricky as he’s from Taiwan and there are no Taiwanese restaurants that we know of in Madrid. But since he’s also of Japanese heritage, he makes us Japanese curry at home and we frequent Japanese restaurants like Kintaro and Sumo.

So it was time for us to eat Greek food in light of where my father’s from. When we arrived at Taberna Griega on a rainy Sunday at 2pm, we instantly realized how wonderfully Greek this place was. The walls are painted blue and white to match the Aegean sea. In case that’s not enough to tell you it’s Greek, you can also look around at the statues of Greek gods, or of course, at the Greek flags displayed in every corner.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

But these over-the-top decorations shouldn’t surprise you if you’ve seen the film, ‘My Big Fat Greek Wedding’. What will surprise you, however, is the delicious meal you can get for under 20€.

We started with a round of drinks at the crowded bar alongside neighborhood patrons. Teo appreciated my effort to speak in the little Greek I remembered (my vocabulary is that of a three-year-old). Make sure to thank him and the staff with an enthusiastic efharistó (thanks) when leaving! When we moved to our table beside Aphrodite, we ordered four starters to share — a Greek peasant salad, taramá, tzatziki and spinach and cheese pies.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

A typical way to start a Greek meal is with different dips, salads and pita bread.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid

Tzatziki is a dip made of yogurt, cucumber, garlic and dill. Absolutely delicious with pita bread.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Taramasalata is a creamy dip made of fish roe, usually mixed with either bread crumbs or mashed potatoes.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Spanakopita (spinach pie) and tiropita (cheese pie). On the menu you’ll find them called ’empanadas griegas’

For the main course, Kaloyan ordered souvlaki (meat skewers), and I ordered gemistá (roasted red pepper stuffed with meat and rice). And James, Edison and Lorelie ordered the mixed meat platter of two chicken skewers, befteki (Greek hamburgers filled with feta cheese) and gyro meat.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Souvlaki, either lamb or veal skewers (Kalo ordered veal)

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Gemistá, stuffed bell peppers filled with meat and rice. So good.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Mixed meat platter for 2-3 people

For dessert, we got the two most popular and delicious Greek sweets, baklava and kataifi, both made of honey, nuts and filo dough.

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Baklavi

Taberna Griega by Naked Madrid, best Greek restaurant in Madrid

Kataifi

At the end of our meal, Teo gave us a round of shots to help us recover from what we had just devoured, and the bill came out to 20€ each. So if you’ve craving some real Greek food or want to experience an unpretentious neighborhood restaurant in Madrid, then here you are!

Facebook
Address: Juan de Urbieta, 6
Metro: Pacífico
Phone: 914 34 89 19

 

If you’re looking for a more take-away Greek place in the center, you should definitely go to Greek & Shop in Malasaña

And if you’re looking for an authentic Bulgarian restaurant, you must go to Taberna Bulgaria.




Cosy Wine Bars in La Latina (with gluten free options!)

If you´re looking for some dark and cosy wine bars to enjoy a glass of fantastic Spanish wine and some delicious tapas, then head to La Latina. Known as Madrid´s tapas district, this neighbourhood is famous for its lazy Sunday afternoon tradition of tapas-bar-hopping, up and down the winding streets of Cava Baja and Cava Alta.

But first, the history of Cava Baja has more to do with foreigners in Madrid than you might think.

Originally a deep trench that ran along the outside of the medieval city walls, Cava Baja protected the city from bandits and scoundrels, and allowed the people of Madrid to come and go freely without using the city gates. Soon the city boundaries spread, and local taverns sprung up along this stretch to lodge (and feed) travellers and farmers, who came to Madrid to sell their wares at market; You can still see the street sloping downhill and curving to follow the path of the old city wall.

This means that, for expats and visitors to the city, enjoying a glass of local wine and food amongst the higgledy piggledy bars and old taverns of Cava Baja is to not only enjoy La Latina, but also repeat the history of many a travelling peddler visiting Madrid.

El Tempranillo

For people that like Spanish wine: El Tempranillo. From the moment that you see the entire wall of wine bottle racks behind the bar, you know that you are in the right place.

Chic and modern from the outside but small and traditional on the inside, El Tempranillo has the perfect mix of low lighting, muted conversation and good Spanish wine- and a table to sit at if you order some tapas.

Compared with other wine and tapas bars in Cava Baja, El Tempranillo has something unique that is difficult to put your finger on.

Right in the heart of the hustle and bustle of Cava Baja, it is comparatively understated- but quietly confident. It has a real buzz of people under the dimmed lighting, but is surprisingly quiet. This muted conversation gives a sense of privacy in which you can enjoy your glass of wine, share a few tapas and have a meaningful conversation with good friends- without having to raise your voice.

The tapas at El Tempranillo are addictive. Try the ´revuelto de champiñones salvajes´ (mushroom omelette), or the tostas. You might have to wait a little to order at peak times during the weekend or evenings, but the dishes come out quickly once ordered and are worth the wait.

Then, the wine. Order from the chalk board, which has an impressive selection of wine that comes from almost all the wine regions of Spain. Most exciting, though, is their larger than average selection of good Spanish wines available by the glass, with prices starting as low as 2,50€ and 2,70€. Arrive a little early, set up your company at a table, and enjoy some good wine.

Tempranillo wine bar in La Latina
Calle Cava Baja, 38

Juana La Loca

Juana La Loca makes a nod towards Juana, the ´mad queen of Castile´, who although was probably just another misunderstood female royal, still makes for a good story and name for a wine bar.

Juana La Loca, Madrid wine and tapas bar

Small, dark, cosy and kinetic, Juana La Loca is perfect for a glass of Spanish wine and some delicious tapas.

Tightly packed inside, with small tables edging around the long bar, Juana La Loca mixes the worlds of both restaurant and wine bar into one dynamic space. With both bar and table enjoying tapas and wine, just with each enjoying more of one than the other, the two functions blend harmoniously into one shared space.

To start with a glass of wine, choose from the wine board behind the bar. Although the choices are slightly restricted and slightly pricier by the glass, the quality of the wine makes up for the lack of selection. If you like deep, complex red wines, try a Ribera del Duero Crianza or Reserva.

Without a doubt, the most famous dish served at Juana La Loca is the tortilla de patatas: a buttery, melt-in-the-mouth tortilla, finished with a crispy outer layer and served on top of a slice of bread. If you are being visited by friends or family in Madrid who have not yet tried tortilla de patatas, this is the one to debut.

The ´huevos rotos´ are also to-die-for, either to share or as a ración for yourself: crispy, chewy, buttery fries topped with melting fried egg, small salty strips of jamón, salted pimientos de padrón and a shake of paprika, all served on a long plate.

Very well accompanied by a glass of fresh wine to clean your palate and a bowl of Juana La Loca´s moreish olives, these delicious options can also be served gluten free if you ask the waiter. The prices may be a little higher, but the quality of the wine and food are a step above the rest.

A little tip is to bring cash with you, as they do not accept cards. The small wine bar-restaurant also fills up quickly in the evenings; after 20:30 tables are only for a meal of tapas (plus wine) and bar spots are only for wine (plus a tapa). Arrive early enough to enjoy some good wine and conversation amongst the relaxed atmosphere, and feel the bar fill up with the buzz of evening service.

Juana La Loca, La Latina tapas and wine bar in Madrid

Plaza Puerta de Los Moros, 4
www.juanalalocamadrid.com

La Concha

If you like sherry, cava or vermouth, then you are in luck. This tiny mismatched bar with painted wood panels and creative details offers a great selection of Spanish fortified wines and sparkling cava from Cataluña. A refreshing take on the usual full-bodied red wine offered in La Latina, come to La Concha for something a little different.

La Concha wine vermouth and cava bar in La Latina, Madrid

La Concha has a nomadic feel, keeping in tune with the street´s history of travelling visitors, and offers both the upstairs bar for drinks and downstairs seating area for tapas.

If you have yet to try vermouth, a fortified wine infused with various roots, barks, flowers, seeds, herbs and spices, La Concha has ´Vermut Miró´, a Spanish vermouth from the northern Spanish city of Reús.

La concha also has a selection of Spanish Sherries, or ´Jerez´ in Spanish. Hailing from the D.O. wine region with the same name, Jerez de la Frontera, Jerez is unique in its elaboration; you cannot find a fortified wine like Sherry anywhere else in the world.

La Concha wine, vermouth, cava and tapas bar, in La Latina, Madrid

If you like bubbles: Cava. Spain´s answer to champagne, this bubbly sparkling wine can come in 4 different kinds: Cava, Cava Reserva (minimum 15 months ageing), Cava Gran Reserva (over 30 months ageing) and Rosé. La Concha has more than one of each kind, from different wineries, to try. Order a glass with one of their tapas. Although Cava traditionally matches well with fish or sweet fruity flavours, this is not necessarily the case; a Brut Nature Gran Reserva would go well with meat dishes, roasts or spicer foods.

On a week night you will easily find a spot here. Just head down the kooky stairs and order from their small tapas menu, which is also available completely gluten free.

La Concha wine vermouth and cava bar in La Latina, Madrid

Calle Cava Baja, 7
www.laconchataberna.com

Extra notes

If you would like to know what to look for in these wine and tapas bars, or are not sure what kinds of wines you like yet, you can also do some wine tasting in Madrid.

Wine word

Maridaje – food and wine pairing

 

Here are a few more articles you might like:

Madrid’s 3 Best Wine Shops

Taberna Lamiak, another wonderful bar in La Latina

Madrid’s Best Cafe-Bookshops 




Best Cafe-bookshops in Madrid, Round 2!

Welcome to round two of the best cafe-bookshops in Madrid! As you may have noticed in round one, Madrid’s central neighborhoods boast quite a lot of quaint coffee shops and bars that encourage drinking and reading under one roof.

There’s something about drinking coffee or wine amidst a sea of books that makes me feel right at home. Whether you’re looking for the perfect place to enjoy a quiet conversation or a good read, here are five more wonderful cafe-bookshops in Madrid that you’re bound to fall in love with.

1. La Central de Callao 

La Central cafe bookshop in Madrid by Naked Madrid

La Central (featured in the cover photo) is a trendy bookshop near Callao and hands down the most modern of all on this list. It boasts three floors, a happening café with a full menu and a selection of much more than books on offer. At La Central, you can also find funky mugs, quirky bags, useful calendars, board games, wrapping paper, you name it. It’s a great place to get gifts in Madrid.

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  • Address: C/ Postigo de San Martín, 8
  • Metro: Callao

2. J&J Books and Coffee

J and J's Books and Coffee Madrid by Naked Madrid

J and J's Books and Coffee Madrid by Naked Madrid

A long-time staple among Madrid’s expat community, this corner bar has a downstairs bookstore selling a large selection of primarily used English-language books, including ESL resources. Up at the bar, you can get craft beer, wine, coffee, bagels and other things to munch on. Also check out J&J’s free events, including language exchanges and pub quizzes (trivia nights). Lots of fun!

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  • Address: c/ Espíritu Santo, 47
  • Metro: Noviciado

3. italiana_madrid

italiana_madrid caffee librería by Naked Madrid

italiana_madrid caffee librería by Naked Madrid

This Italian café and bookshop is located on one of Madrid’s most vibrant streets – Corredera Baja de San Pablo – which is lined with great bars, cafes and restaurants, such as Aió Pizzería, Elemental Bistro and Gymage with its rooftop terrace. At italiana_madrid, you can get a strong espresso or Aperol Spritz, plus browse through a wide selection of Italian reads ranging from cookbooks to children’s books. It’s also across the street from one of the city’s favorite theaters, Teatro Lara.

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  • Address: Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 10
  • Metro: Gran Vía

4. La Ciudad Invisible

Rebujito at La Ciudad Invisible cafe travel bookshop by Naked Madrid, in Madrid center

A travel bookshop selling food and drinks, this two-level cafe boasts huge windows, high ceilings, and plenty of large tables, couches and comfortable armchairs to choose from, making it a great place for getting work done and meeting friends. Plus it sells a killer Rebujito for 2€ (a really refreshing yet deceptive drink from the South containing sherry, white wine and soda water). It’s also across the street from one of my favorite restaurants in Madrid, Bar Lambuzo.

  • Facebook
  • Address: c/ Costanilla de los Ángeles, 7
  • Metro: Opera & Santo Domingo

5. María Pandora

María Pandora Café by Naked Madrid

María Pandora is one of my favorite spots in the city. Perched atop a hill overlooking Parque las Vistillas, behind the Royal Palace, here you’ll find the perfect place to watch the sunset while enjoying a glass of champagne (the house specialty) or your drink of choice. Although María Pandora is more of a bar than a coffeeshop, it still deserves a spot on this list of literary cafés. It also holds events such as poetry nights, microtheater, and book readings. Check out our full article on María Pandora here.

  • Website & Facebook
  • Phone: +34 910 42 82 13
  • Address: Plaza de Gabriel Miró, 1
  • Metro: La Latina or Ópera

Make sure to read: “Best Cafe-Bookshops in Madrid, Round 1″

Also check out our favorite bookshop in the city, Desperate Literature




Chuka Ramen Bar, they take ramen seriously

I used to say I didn’t like Japanese cuisine because I mistakenly thought it was limited to sushi. But thankfully, my recent visits to three Japanese restaurants in Madrid – Sumo, Hattori Hanzo and now Chuka Ramen Bar – have turned me onto a whole new world of tantalising flavours and creations.

Last Tuesday, I went to Chuka with Daphne, Juan and Vanessa from the teams at Naked Madrid and Las Mesas de Vanessa (one of Madrid’s best restaurant blogs). Chuka is a wonderful new ramen bar situated near metro Sevilla and next door to one of Madrid’s oldest bars, La Venencia, where you should get yourself a glass of sherry either before or after your meal.

Chuka Ramen by Naked Madrid

Chuka specializes in ramen yet also offers a number of other Japanese dishes you have to try. Our waiter was kind enough to walk us through the menu and thanks to him, I sipped on delicious Japanese beer and ordered the best dish of my life… So keep reading and make sure to do as we did.

We started with Dok Boki, which consists of rice balls with Korean chili and sesame. They tasted just perfect. Then we had some tasty dumplings filled with butifarra and Chinese chives.

Chuka Ramen Dok Boki by naked madrid

Chuka Ramen Dok Boki

Dumplings by Naked Madrid

Once we finished the starters, I was already impressed. Then the main dishes arrived… We ordered two types of Ramen: shoyu and hiyashi. The first one, Shoyu, is prepared with noodles, bacon, boiled egg and Chinese chives. The soup had a mix of dashi and chicken with nori seaweed. It was insanely good.

Shoyu Ramen by Naked Madrid

The second ramen, hiyashi, the one I ordered, sent me straight to food heaven. As soon as I tasted it, I knew I couldn’t share and thus proceeded to devour it in a matter of minutes.  Even though I had made a deal with Daphne to try each other’s dishes, I couldn’t bear the idea of giving up even one spoonful. It was made of cold noodles and ground sausage. All of it was covered with chilli oil, a boiled egg, some watercress and sugar-roasted cashews. The ingredients were perfectly cooked and well selected, making the dish truly unforgettable (seriously… I can’t get it out of my head).

Hiyashi Chuka by Naked Madrid

According to Juan and Vanessa, who travel to Japan whenever they can, Chuka Ramen Bar has an authentic Japanese feel and look; there’s nothing pretentious about it and it’s a great spot for dinner with friends. Our recommendation is to get there early at night (they open at 8:30pm) and grab a table at the back. Be careful because the restaurant doesn’t take reservations and it gets packed! We arrived at 9:15pm and waited at the bar until 10pm when we were finally seated. It was totally worth it though, don’t worry.

Contact info 

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Instagram
Web 

Address

Address: C/ Echegaray, 9
Metro: Sevilla 

Hours

Tuesday through Thursday: 8:30-11:30 pm
Friday & Saturday: 1:30-3.30 pm

Menu (In Spanish)

 

More Asian restaurants featured on Naked Madrid:

 




Greek and Shop in Malasaña

If you frequently find yourself in Malasaña, it will only be a matter of time before the bocadillos in the window of Greek and Shop seduce you into a Grecian gastronomical experience. They’re displayed so darn nicely and no matter what time of day – or night – they never fail to look appetizing.

Located in the heart of hipsterville (i.e. the barrio of Malsaña), Greek and Shop offers an array of Greek specialities in a bright, metropolitan locale. Take your pick from the bevy of options scrawled on the chalkboard behind the register. Here you’ll find the likes of moussaka, gyros, and bocadillos filled with foodstuffs of the Mediterranean.

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Plump chunks of chicken spiced with curry make up the meat of the Andros bocadillo (no pun intended), pictured above. Warm cheese and spicy arugula make it complete, and juicy sun-dried tomatoes impart a delectable tanginess. The hearty seed bread gives the sandwich the overall impression of wholesomeness. Reasonably priced at 3.50€, the bocadillo is filling, but nevertheless, you might not be ready for it to end.

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Sit at one of the high stools in the store and find yourself surrounded by jars of olives and artichokes. A multitude of treats and sweets such as halvah and baklava are never uncomfortably out of reach. You’ll find that the tables are stocked with reading material if you are so inclined. Alternatively, the mustachioed passersby on Corredera Alta de San Pablo provide live people-watching entertainment.

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No matter the time of day – breakfast, lunch, or dinner – Greek and Shop is bound to have something to whet your appetite. They have late-night eats covered too. A convenient take-out window opens up on the side of the shop for the night owl crowd. This may be a particularly apt time to give the super creamy, slightly zippy Greek yogurt ice cream a try. Just a suggestion.

Greek and Shop

  • Facebook
  • Where: Corredera Alta de San Pablo, 9
  • Metro: Tribunal

Also check out: Egeo, our go-to Greek restaurant in Lavapiés

 

 




Get fit and festive this month!

So here it is, Merry Christmas… and this month’s installation of the best running events in Madrid! As usual Madrid has come up trumps in terms of scheduling a great run almost every weekend.

Why not truly get in the festive spirit this month and sign up for the Papá Noel race, you will receive your very own Santa Claus costume (obvious bonus) and you have the opportunity to help Madrid break the record for the largest number of people dressed as Santa running at the same time. How can you resist? Alternatively, get yourself pumped and end the year with a bang at the San Silvestre race on New Year’s Eve!

The support at these events is always so encouraging. This band cheered us on at the 4a Carrera Popular, Corre por el Niño.

The support at these events is always so encouraging. This band cheered us on at the 4a Carrera Popular, Corre por el Niño.

So here is what December in Madrid has in store for you:

1. VIII Carrera Solidaria:

Distance: 5 & 10 kilometres

When: Sunday, 7th December, 9:00 am

Where: Paseo de Castellana

Website

2. 4º Trofeo Club Iberia Virgen de Loreto:

Distance: 10 kilometres

When: Monday, 8th December, 11:30 am

Where: Parque Juan Carlos I

3. III Carrera Popular de Papá Noel El Corte Inglés 2014:

Distance: 5.5 kilometres

When: Saturday, 13th December, 10:30 am

Where: Paseo de la Castellana Avenue Concha Espina corner, metro: Santiago Bernabeo Stadium

Info: Sign up online for €12.60 to receive your Santa Claus costume! You have until Tuesday 9th to sign up. Collect your costume from participating El Corte Ingles department stores.

Website

4. Carrera de la Solidaridad

Distance: 5 & 10 kilometres

When: Saturday, 13th December, 10:00 am (10 k) 10:25 am (5 k)

Where: Casa de Campo

Website

5. XXXIV Trofeo Akiles:

Distance: 5 & 10 kilometres

When: Sunday, 14th December, 9:30 am (5 k) 10:00 am (10 k)

Where: Campo de Futbol, metro: Lago Casa de Campo

Website

6. New Year’s Eve – San Silvestre Vallecana 2014:

Distance: 10 kilometres

When: Wednesday, 31st December, 17:30 – 18:00 depending on which category you fall into.

Where: metro: Santiago Bernabeu

Website

Just a little update from my end – Last month I completed my first half marathon! All 21 kilometres in 2 hours and 8 minutes. Although by the end of it, to say I was running slower than snail’s pace is an understatement.

Photography by Lauren Haynes, my personal cheerleader, at the half marathon.

Photography by Lauren Haynes, my personal cheerleader, at the half marathon.

If you are really into running and you want to stay up-to-date with the latest running events in Madrid and beyond, please check out my blog: www.goguiri.com where you can also read my running diary. 

Happy running everyone!

 

 

 

 

 

 




An insider’s guide to Sol: avoid the tourist traps and beat the Christmas crowds

Madrid is a fantastic place to be at Christmas and nowhere is more festive, and more popular, than the area around Puerta del Sol, Ópera and Plaza Mayor. As well as the usual hordes of foreign tourists, Spaniards from all over Madrid and beyond flock to the city centre to see the Christmas lights, queue up at Doña Manolita for their lottery tickets, shop for nativity supplies in Plaza Mayor and take in the spectacle of Cortylandia.

If you plan on doing any of these things, my top piece of advice would be avoid going at the weekends, as the whole centre is utter chaos. During last year’s December puente they even had to temporarily suspend metro services to Sol and make people get off at neighbouring stations, due to the sheer volume of people already in the plaza and surrounding streets.

Whatever day you embark upon your festive jaunt, you’ll no doubt be in need of a break and some refreshment after a while. Christmas shopping can be thirsty work! Many of the bars and restaurants around Puerta del Sol are incredibly touristy or incredibly busy (or both!), so how do you find a decent spot?

Read on for our insider’s guide to the hidden gems of the Madrid’s centre.

If you want breakfast…

Churros for breakfast at San Ginés

You’ll need a decent desayuno to set you up for a busy day of shopping and sightseeing, and in time-honoured tradition you might head to San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Ginés 5) or Valor (Calle Postigo de San Martín 7) for some chocolate con churros. Go early if you do, and certainly don’t visit at merienda time as the queues are out of the door. Alternatively, you could try one of these lesser-known spots for breakfast:
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Ferpal (Calle Arenal 7)

Ferpal
Many tourists eye up the delicious meats, cheeses and other treats in the windows of this top-quailty delicatessan, but few realise there’s also a bar inside. They serve delicious coffee, croissants, bocatas and sandwiches, all for only a couple of euros. Kill two birds with one stone and pick up a few tasty Christmas presents while you’re here. They normally close on Sundays but will be open over the festive season.
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El Riojano (Calle Mayor 10)

El Riojano
Ok, so it’s not exactly a hidden gem, but did you know that this famous pastry shop has a secret tea room in the back? If you have a sweet tooth and you fancy a more relaxing experience than the scrum at La Mallorquina (another must-see, although perhaps at a quieter time of year!), then this is most definitely your place. Read Laura’s more detailed post on El Riojano here.
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If you fancy a drink…

Battling your way to the front of the Cortylandia crowd on a Saturday afternoon is enough to make anyone need an alcoholic beverage! (If you’ve never heard of Cortylandia I won’t go into details other than that it’s one of those Spanish traditions that you probably need to see for yourselves. Oh, and this year, it’s penguins.) Here are a couple of my favourite places:

La Torre del Oro (Plaza Mayor 26)

La Torre del Oro
If you’ve been shopping for your Christmas tree or the moss for your nativity, then this bar is extremely handy for a quick beer. The terraza outside is like any other, you need to go inside for the decor that makes this bar special. The waiters are all extremely jolly and dish out tasty tapas with every drink. An Andalusian classic hidden slap-bang in the centre of Madrid.

Matador (Calle de la Cruz 39)

Matador
Another bull-themed bar with interesting stuff on the walls, I love this place for its cosy atmosphere, great-value drinks and generous tapas. Its cave-like interior is pretty small so it can get crowded, but if you’re lucky enough to grab a stool you might end up forgetting the shopping and spending all afternoon here!
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If you’re hungry…

There are times when tapas just won’t do and you need something more substantial. Try one of these spots for some tasty grub:

El Ñeru (Calle Bordadores 5)

El cachopo. Image from https://www.facebook.com/nerumadrid

Cachopo at El Ñeru. Image from El Ñeru’s Facebook

There are plenty of Asturian restaurants around this area but this one is my favourite. You can stand at the bar upstairs and gorge yourself on free tapas (try the cabrales cheese one) and dishes such as their magnificent cachopo, or you can take the weight off your feet and dine in the cavernous restaurant downstairs. It isn’t the cheapest but it’s worth it for the exquisite (and extremely filling!) food and excellent service.

Bar Lambuzo (Calle de las Conchas 9)

Image from www.barlambuzo.com

Image from Lambuzo’s Web

If you fancy something a little lighter, stop by this delightful restaurant run by a family from Cadiz. From salmorejo to croquetas to a whole array of pescadito frito, everything on the menu is absolutely delicious, extremely reasonably-priced and will inject a little ray of Andalusian sunshine into even the darkest winter day. Check out Daphne’s post for more information on Bar Lambuzo.
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If you need to get away from it all…

Even for the most die-hard Christmas fans, the crowds can sometimes get a bit much. All of these bars are just a short walk from Puerta del Sol and each provides a much-needed oasis of tranquility away from the masses.

Anticafe (Calle Unión 2)

Tucked away on a quiet street near Ópera, Anticafe is a great place to chill out with a coffee, caña or cocktail. The music is great and the decor wonderfully quirky, so just sink into one of their mismatched armchairs, put your feet up and forget all about your festive to-do list.
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Casa Pueblo (Calle León 3)

This cosy bar is the perfect antidote to the madness of the Christmas crowds. Let the friendly staff whip you up one of their delicious mojitos or order a tasty slice of cake if you’re in need of some sugar. If you’re lucky you might catch one of their live jazz sessions too.
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Plaza Menor (Calle Gómez de Mora 3)

Plaza Menor
 Head to this fantastic little drinking den nestled right behind Plaza Mayor for a cocktail, a copa or just a cup of tea. The interior is a maze of low-roofed caves so grab a spot and maybe some of their yummy carrot cake and lose yourself for a couple of hours.

Know of any other hidden gems in the centre of Madrid? Let us know!




‘The Hovse’ pop-up market revives a vacant three-story mansion in Chamberí with 80 designers and vermouth

Madrid’s pop-up culture can overwhelm a normal bar goer like myself. Every weekend there’s a pop-up market, a pop-up restaurant or a pop-up this or that. If you can’t go to all of them, go to this one — The Hovse has eighty designers and food stalls taking over a beautiful three-story mansion on Calle General Arrando, 40, from 12pm-9pm every day until December 24th. Do not miss it.

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

There’s something whimsical about this old house that makes it the perfect place to create a Christmas time pop-up market. I found it wonderfully entertaining to walk up each flight of stairs to discover what was in store, all the while wondering what the house might have looked like when it was once occupied by tenants. Now, on the first and second floor you’ll find stands selling clothing, jewellery, furniture, Christmas decorations and other nicknacks. But my favorite part is by far the third floor (where you’ll find the drinks) and of course, the rooftop!

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid with La Vermutería and Better es Mejor

The ones responsible for all this are called Better, a young Madrid-based agency that throws pop-up events to promote different brands and venues. They’re currently holding another event called The Table By at Hotel Urso, where 6 leading restaurants from across Spain are invited to Madrid for one month at a time. As you can see, Better’s approach to marketing and event planning is to take over unexpected spaces and give them a new light.

And that’s exactly what they’ve done with The Hovse.

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

After browsing, climb up to the third floor. Get yourself a glass of vermouth, wine or limonada, or a cup of coffee. Then grab a seat on the couch or pop up to the roof.

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

One of the main provides of drinks at The Hovse is La Vermutería. a pop-up bar that travels around the city like a nomad, taking over different venues and throwing vermouth-inspired events where DJs, good ambience and up and coming vermouth brands are all at play. At The Hovse, you can get a glass of ridiculously good vermouth for 2€ and choose from a selection of tapas. Other food stalls such as Ma Petite Creperie and El Huerto de Lucas are also serving up sweet and savoury treats.

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

Where do you sit back and relax? In the living room… of course.

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid with La Vermutería and Better es Mejor

Or on the rooftop terrace!

The Hovse Madrid Pop-up by Naked Madrid

 

Info:

The Hovse by Better

Address: Calle General Arrando 40

Metro: Alonso Martínez, Rubén Darío, Iglesia

When: 12pm-9pm until December 24th

 

Check out our events calendar to find out about other pop-up markets in Madrid

You may also like our post on “Best Christmas Markets in Madrid 2014”